Tropical island aficionados declare these islands perfect for snorkelling and diving, or just plain lolling about. If picture-perfect white sand beaches lapped by aquamarine waters that shelter colourful coral reefs and fish are not sufficient draws, head for Gili Trawangan the “party island”

The three Gili islands lie just off the northwest coast of Lombok. For years they have attracted visitors from around the world for their pristine waters, great diving and snorkelling as well as funky laidback charm. The word “Gili” means “small island”, and so these islands have come to be known as the “Gill’s” by travellers. Tropical island aficionados have long considered the Gili’s to be on par with the appeal of Thailand’s south coast island havens and the coral atolls of Maldives.

Over the past decade, each of the Gili’s has developed a unique personality. Although previously the domain of backpackers and more intrepid travellers, word has gar around and the Gili islands now attract a diverse range of visitors. from serious diving enthusiasts Is families and couples of all ages.

The Gili’s are small, flat coral islands with sparse vegetation and rainfall, and it can seem much hotter here than on the mainland. There is no fresh water on the Gili’s, so prepared for salt-water show Water is drawn from wells or shipper from the mainland, so there is a to conserve the islands’ limited waif resources. Drink only bottled wat eat well cooked food, and, if stayri_ in budget hotels, choose places mosquito nets. There are no cars motorbikes on the islands, and tn_ main form of transport, apart frc7 bicycles and walking, is by delightful cidomo (horse-drawn cart).

A good number of reputable internationally accredited dive operators based in Lombok organise trips to the Gili islands. While m of the coral in the shallow waters been destroyed by dynamite fis and coral bleaching caused El Nino in 1997, there is still an inaresting array of fish to see in waters directly off the beaches greater depths and at the specific dive locations around the three islands, the pristine waters are home to an abundant variety of corals, aquatic life and thousands of species of tropical fish.

The Gili’s are easily reached from the mainland by boats from Bangsal Harbour, or through the tour and dive operators in Senggigi. Many of the larger hotels on the islands also provide speedboat transfers for guests.

Gili Air

Gili Air is the island closest to the mainland and the most easily accessed of the three Gili’s. This island has the largest local popula¬tion of the three and combines the charm of a tropical island with easy access to the people and culture that that has made Lombok so special.

Much of the development is on the east coast, facing Lombok and the towering Gunung Rinjani, which provides spectacular sunrises; sunsets over Gunung Agung on Bali are visi ble from the south and western coasts of Gili Air. The best beaches are also found on the east side, with clear turquoise waters and soft white sand.

Diving facilities abound and there is good snorkelling directly from the shore, particularly from the east and northeast beaches. Air Wall, off the west coast, is a popular dive site, with soft corals that gleam yellow and orange in the sunlight, and harbour scorpion fish and thousands of glassfish. In the deeper waters are white tip reef sharks and schools of larger fish species.

Dream Divers (tel: 0370-634547; www.dreamdivers.com), a PADI operation with experienced Western and local instructors can take you out to some of the best spots for diving.

Gili Air also attracts surfers: with the right conditions, there is a good surf break off the south of the island.

There is a good range of accommodation on Gili Air, from simple homestays to more expensive hotels with all the attendant creature comforts. Dining opportunities range from good quality restaurants to simple warung on the beach and, while the bars aren’t as loud as on Gili Trawangan, there are still plenty of opportunities to have fun.

Reatauran in Gili Air

International

Coconut Cottages

East Coast, to the north of the main restaurant strip. Tel: 0370-635365. Open: daily B, L & D.$ www.coconuts-giliair.com
Set back from the beach in a cool coconut grove, This very popular hotel serves good seafood dishes, as well as European and Indonesian meals in the restaurant and the pavilions in the garden. During peak seasons it serves an excellent buffet with tasty amries and Sasak food at a very reasonable price.

Restaurant Gill Air

Gili Air Hotel. Tel: 0370- 543580. Open: daily B, L & 1 5$. www.hotelgiliair.com
Expect the usual mix of coal and Western dishes at this casual, laidback eatery, but with a slightly higher standard than elsewhere on the island. In addition, there is a nightly barbecue of ether seafood or meat.

Gili Meno

Gill Meno is the middle and smallest island of the three, with the lowest population. It is not as developed as Gili Trawangan or Gili Air, and the pace is much slower. Small hotels and basic beachside huts pro¬vide accommodation for those seeking uncrowded beaches, clean waters and quiet walks under the star-filled skies.

The landscape is flat, with coconut groves inland and a small lake hi the west from which the locals harvest meagre supplies of salt. Meno Wall, off the west coast, is a popular dive site, with many varieties of marine life found at depths of 18 metres (60 ft). Hawksbill and green turtles call the waters around Gili Meno home, particularly on the northwest corner, and the reefs just offshore feature outcrops of brilliant blue coral.

The main development is on the east side, which has a stunning wide beach. The string of beachside bars and warung along this stretch provide plenty of opportunities for viewing spectacular sunrises and sunsets over the volcanoes.

Restaurant Gili Meno

International

Bibi’s Café

Ville Nautilus, East Coast. No Telephone. Open: daily B, L & SS. www.villanautilus.com
Small stylish restaurant Gili Meno’s most luxu¬cus resort. Serves the usual mix of local and Western food with an emphasis on freshly caught seafood.

Blue Marlin Dive & Café

East Coast. Tel: 0370-639979. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
This popular dive shop near the harbour is open for breakfast and has a good selection of Western and Indonesian dishes for lunch and dinner. It also serves good value sandwiches and burgers, steaks and seafood dishes, as well as a full range of drinks and cocktails.

Gili Trawangan

Gili Trawangan is furthest from the mainland and the largest island, complete with a small hill at its southern end. This is the most famous of the three Gill’s, with a reputation as “the party island” – thanks to the many wild parties held at bars and restaurants on the island. Thankfully there is more to Gili Trawangan than its party island fame.

Backpackers flock here to enjoy the gorgeous white sand beaches, cheap accommodation, and (natu-rally) the parties held at different locations every night. Other more upmarket travellers stay at the bet¬ter hotels and spend their days relaxing in the sun or diving.

There is good snorkelling just off the shore with waters that teem with  a still abundant variety of tropical fish species. Strong currents are sometimes a bother, especially in the strait with neighbouring Gili Meno. Further out are vast gardens of coral, regarded as one of the best dive spots in Lombok, particularly Shark Point to the east of the island, which is home to white tip reef sharks, green and hawksbill turtle, eels, hard and soft corals, and a fascinating array of marine life.

The hill in the south of the island is a great lookout from which to enjoy the spectacular sunsets across the ocean to Bali; or in the morning the brilliant sunrise over Gunung  Rinjani on Lombok. On the far south. end of the hill are remnants of old WWII Japanese gun emplacements and crumbling bunkers, but the handdug tunnels have been blocked up.

The main development is on the east coast, particularly southeast in the area called “Sentral”, where boats dock. There are also some hotels on the north coast, which offer peaceful alternatives. Gili Trawangan has the best tourism infrastructure including shops, tour agencies, moneychangers and Internet cafés.

Restaurant Gili Trawangan

Indian

Pesona Restaurant Pesona Resort

Sentral. Tel: 0370-6607233. Open: daily L & D. $$ www.pesonaresort.com
Beachfront restaurant with a romantic setting and a wide range of Indian dishes, some Western dishes and a nightly seafood barbecue. Attached is the Sheesha Lounge and Cocktail Bar.

International

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Sentral, East Coast. Tel: 0370- 639248. Open: daily L& D. $$ In a prime location overlooking a beautiful beach, this bar and lounge has upmarket and stylish decor, a chill-out lounge and a fantastic range of cocktails. It also serves delicious and innovative food, including tapas and gourmet pizzas, with fine dining at night. Late night, the lounge grooves to chill-out tunes and the beautiful people come out to play. You’ll be forgiven if you think you’re in Bali’s Seminyak beach.

Waves Restaurant Vila Ombak

East Coast. Tel: 0370-642336. Open: daily L & D. $$$ www.hotelombak.com
This upmarket resort has tables on the beach at night and a good selection of seafood and inter-national dishes, wines and desserts. The buffet and theme dinners are usually good value, with the catch of the day displayed on ice at the front. The restaurant upstairs is nice for lunch, with some interesting salads, wood-fired pizzas, burgers and Asian-fusion treats.

Seafood

The Beach House

Sentral, East Coast. Mobile tel: 0813-39747459. Open: daily B, L & D. $$ www.beachhousegilit.com
This is very popular bar and restaurant, located directly on the beachfront. The nightly barbecue features a delicious array of fresh fish, lobsters, prawns, crabs and squid, in addition to imported steaks from Australia. The great atmosphere and full bar and cocktail facilities make this one of the best on Gili Trawangan.

Scallywags

South Coast. Tel: 0370- 631945. Open: daily B, L & D. $$$
Popular all-day café with a variety of seafood and other dishes. Have your fish, prawn or lobster either grilled plain or cooked Continental style, like the pan-seared coral trout with manchego salad, and the signature dish of tempura sardines drizzled with apple sauce. A seafood barbecue features nightly. Free Wi-Fi.

Wrap a Snapper

Sentral. Tel: 0370-642217. Open: daily L & D. $ Originally from Seminyak, Bali, and now firmly a part of the local eating out scene, this restaurant specialises in English-style fish and chips: fresh fish filleted and coated in a light batter and then deep-fried. The accompanying french fries is perfect. Other seafood dishes feature on the menu too.