Trekking in the Rinjani National Park and its vicinity brings you to awesome forests and waterfalls. More adventurous spirits may prefer climbing Gunung Rinjani, an internationally recognised eco-tourism site, or teeing-off in the world-class Kosaido Golf Course.

North Lombok is reached by two main roads, both in good condition and providing different scenic tours of the north. The coastal road that runs from Ampenan all the way up the west coast to the north provides stunning views of the many beautiful bays and beaches that line the west coast, as well as vistas over the Gili islands and Bali to the west.

The Pusuk Pass, a winding mountain road, starts in Gunungsari, north of Mataram, and runs through the mountains inland, terminating at Pemenang in the aorth. The drive up the pass provides wonderful views of valleys and gorges, with rivers running through the tropical forests and small villages scattered among the trees. Families of grey monkeys live im the jungle and sometimes come down to the road to beg for food from passing motorists. Beyond Pemenang, the northern coastal road binds past stunning seascapes and sparsely populated village communities. Heading inland from Anyar leads to the lofty Gunung Rinjani, the main attraction in this area.

Pemenang and Bangsal

Pemenang is the crossroads where the coastal road meets the Pasuk Pass road with Jalan Raya and continues north around the island.

The road to the west only runs about 1 km (½ mile) to Bangsal Harbour, which is the main point of departure for public boats to the beautiful Gili islands. The road is blocked about halfway down at a parking area, and you must continue on foot about another 400 metres (450 yds) to the beach. Cidomo (horse cart) drivers will entice you to pay high prices for the ride to the beach, but it isn’t that far. Note: the harbour area is rife with pesky touts who hang around trying to force travellers to charter boats and buy goods before going to the islands. All the supplies found on the mainland can be purchased at the Gili islands, so ignore the overpriced mosquito repellent and water bottles sold here. Don’t let anyone touch your bag and if you do use a porter, negotiate a price beforehand of around Rp 2,000 per bag. Tickets for the public boats out to the islands can be purchased from the large white building directly to the left on the beach, and boat charters can also be organised from here, with fixed prices clearly displayed inside the building.

Pantai Sira and Tanjung Medana

Further north, a small signposted road branches off from the main road to Pantai Sira, a beautiful white sand beach with fine snorkelling on the offshore coral reef. This is also the site for the Kosaido Golf Course, a stunning world-class 18-hole golf course with magnificent views of the sea from the manicured greens.

On the tip of the next peninsula north at Tanjung Medana is a small temple, Pura Medana    (daily 8am-5pm; donation) with wonderful sunset views and a peaceful atmosphere. On the road out to the temple is the lovely Medana Resort and, at the very end, the luxurious Oberoi Lombok, in a breathtakingly beautiful location right on the beach.

Tanjung and Gondang

About 4 km (2 miles) north of Pun Medana is Tanjung, a large village with numerous warung and shops, and one of the few public wartel (telephone offices) on the island. Muslims, Hindus and Buddhists live here and as a result. a wide variety of ceremonies originate from this area. Tanjung has an interesting market every day and on Sunday, a cattle market where cows goats and horses from all over the island are bought and sold.

Up the coast is Gondang. a small town near a good beach. Tiu Pupus Waterfalls are a 20-minutes walk beyond the end of a poorly marked, rocky road. The spring fed falls are disappointing during the dry season, but otherwise flow into a deep pool where you can swim. Alternatively, trek to the traditional Sasak village of Kerurak. Another 30-minute trek leads to the Kerta Gangga Waterfalls, with three beautiful waterfalls set in the jungle.

Segenter

Travel about 20 km (16 miles) from Gondang and head inland at Sukadana to find the dusty, traditional village of Segenter Q. It provides a glimpse into the harsh reality of life on the island’s dry side. The 300 villagers in this northern interior village eke out a living growing corn and beans, yet they welcome visitors with a smile and proudly share their simple life with tours through the village.

Bayan

Back on the coastal road, turning right at Anyar leads to Bayan, an old village that maintains old dance and poetic traditions, as well as kemidi rudat, a theatre based on the fables, Thousand and One Nights. The village is also the site of the phenomenal Alip festival held once every three years. Bayan is the home of the Wektu Telu religion, which combines the practices of Islam with Hinduism, Buddhism and animist beliefs. The adherents of Wektu Telu (meaning “three times”) pray at three different periods and acknowledge three types of important ceremonies: human rites mbirth, marriage, death), Islamic ceremonies (Maulid, Lebaran) and cyclical rites associated with agriculture and farming.

Wektu Telu rituals have dimin-ished to a point that few people on Lombok identify themselves as such today. Most of the remaining Wektu Telu festivals are at the start of the October—December rainy season or else the April—May harvest. One of lie island’s oldest and most important Wektu Telu mosques is in Bayan.

Senaru

The inland road from Bayan leads to Senaru village, the gateway to Rinjani National Park (daily 8am-6pm; admission charge; guide fees extra), a nature reserve of 41,330 hectares (100,000 acres) that surrounds Gunung Rinjani volcano. The whole area is a picturesque haven, featuring magnificent waterfalls, lush and accessible jungle treks, traditional villages, and plantations of tobacco and cashew nuts, tended alongside verdant rice terraces. Tropical animal species and rare tropical birds like the blacknaped oriole live in the surrounding jungle, as well as abundant varieties of plants and flowers.

The Sendang Gile Waterfalls at Senaru are among Lombok’s most spectacular, even after negotiating the tiring descent down the 200 steps to stand below the thundering falls. The water cascades in a steep vertical drop down the hillside into a rocky stream below. Guides can be hired from the restaurant near the car park for the short trek through the jungle to the lovely Tiu Kelep Waterfalls nearby, where the water flows into a pool at the base, and is great for swimming.

Climbing Gunung Rinjani

Senaru is the usual starting point for climbing Lombok’s famous volcano, Gunung Rinjani. Other options, for a slightly shorter route to the summit, are Sembalun Lawang and Sembalun Bumbung to the east.

Rinjani soars some 3,726 metres (12,224 ft) above sea level and is the second highest volcano in Indonesia, attracting thousands of trekkers and climbers annually. The huge crater near the top contains a beautiful crescent-shaped lake, Danau Segara Anak (Child of the Sea Lake). A smaller volcanic cone, Gunung Baru Jail, juts out from one side of the crater. There are a number of caves, small waterfalls and hot springs scattered around the volcano, most important of which is Air Kaiak on the northeast of the crater, where the volcanically heated waters are said to cure illnesses, particularly skin diseases.

In 2004, the Rinjani Trek won the prestigious World Legacy Award and the volcano is recognised internationally as an important ecotourism destination. In 2000, however, there was a lot of bad press due to a series of robberies on the mountain and tourists were warned to avoid the area. Thankfully, the culprits were caught and since then there have been fewer problems. thanks largely to local initiatives is setting up police posts in the area and proper licensing and training oil trekking guides.

The Rinjani Trek, funded by the New Zealand government, has set up a series of programmes few climbing the volcano and for trekking in the Rinjani National Park, all of which involve the 143.4..4 communities. Still, it is always prudent to use an authorised guide (preferably equipped with two-way radio), deal with a reputable trekking business and carry as feu valuables as possible with you.

For details, contact the Rinjani Trek Centre at the Hotel Lombok Raya in Mataram (Jalan Usaha No. 11, tel: 0370-641124, 632305; www.lomboksumbawa.com) or the office in Senaru (daily 7am-5pm; mobile tel: 081-9331 67395).

Sembalun Bumbung and Sembalun Lawang

Branching off the main coastal road from Bayan, a smaller road runs inland through the mountains with wonderful scenery of dense forests opening up to valley vistas and towering mountain ranges. Sembalun Bumbung 0 is located in a high, cool valley on the slopes of Guntmg Rinjani, along with a neighbouring village, Sembalun Lawang. Both are surrounded by lush fields and valleys planted with garlic, and fruit and vegetables which thrive in the cooler climate. Both villages are alternative points to Senaru for climbing Gunung Rinjani and there are a number of tourist agencies which organise treks in the region, as well as several small homestays.

The road through the mountains is ,teep and rough in places, and eventually ends in Sapit, a pleasant mountain village to the southeast.

Restaurant North Lombok

International

Medana Resort

Jalan Medana, Tanjung. Tel: 0370-628000,628100. Open: daily B, L & D. $$ www.lombokmedana.com

The open-air restaurant of this beachside hotel has some lovely views of the sea and serves a selection of unpreten¬tious European dishes and Indonesian speciali¬ties, along with wines and cocktails from the poolside.

Oberoi Lombok

Jalan Mendana Tanjung. Tel: 0370-643602
Sunbird Café : open daily B & L. $$$
Lumbung : open daily D. $$$$ www.oberoihotels.com

This world-class resort, commanding fantastic views from its beachfront location, has some of the best upmarket dining in Lombok. The Sunbird Café, overlooking the beach, has an innovative Continental and Asian menu. The dinner-only Lumbung restaurant with its sophisticated cuisine has stunning views across the expansive infinity pool and a romantic atmosphere.

Indonesian

Pondok Senaru & Restaurant

Rinjani National Park, Senaru. Mobile Tel: 0812 374 9915. Open daily B, L & D. $
Attractive restaurant with fine views over the rice terraces and foothills. Serves sandwiches for snacks, and more substantial Indonesian meals at lunch and dinner.

EAST LOMBOK

Continuing on the main road around the island, the route passes coastal scenery on the left and mountain vistas on the right, eventually traversing the north coast and descending into the east. Travellers, in comparison to the west coast, infrequently visit this part of Lombok and many of the villages in eastern Lombok are strongly Islamic. Note: there have been reports of harassment in the past and Westerners are viewed with suspicion in some of the more remote areas.

The coastline is extremely beautiful, with many pristine beaches and wonderful views across the water to neighbouring Sumbawa. Labuhan Lombok, also sometimes called Kayangan, is the eastern port with regular ferries departing for Sumbawa and the islands to the east. Although transportation and lodging are difficult, worth visiting are Labuhan Pandan on the east coast, with some stunning deserted beaches and fine snorkelling, and Labuhan Haji, with its beautiful beach on the southeastern coast.

Restaurant East Lombok

Pondok Matahari

Labuhan Pandan, East Lom¬bok. Mobile tel: 0812 374 9915. Open: daily B, L & D. $
The restaurant at this small hotel serves simple Indonesian meals.