Getting There

By Air

Ngurah Rai Airport

Ngurah Rai International Airport in Bali (sometimes referred to by its capital name Denpasar) is served by direct flights from cities in Europe, US, Australia and Asia. In addition, there are daily flights from several key Indonesian cities like Jakarta, Yogyakarta and Surabaya. Some international airlines fly only to Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta International Airport, from where domestic flights to Bali (flight time: 80 minutes) are frequent.

Currently, the foreign airlines serving Bali are: AirAsia, Cathay Pacific, China Airlines, Continental Micronesia, EVA Air, Japan Airlines, Jetstar Airways, Korean Air, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways, Transaero and Valuair.

Indonesian airlines serving Bali include: Batavia Air, Garuda Indonesia, Indonesia Air Trans-port, Lion Air, Mandala Airlines, Merpati Nusantara, Pelita Air, Sriwijaya Air, Trigana Air, Uni Air and Wings Air.

Transportation by Air

The airport is very compact, housing both the domestic and the international terminals, which are within a few minutes walking distance of each other. While no where near the likes of Singapore’s Changi airport, the facilities are adequate, with 87 check-in desks, 13 gates, 16 air-bridges, 7 baggage claim belts, 135 parking spaces, a post office, bank, bureau de change, ATMs, restaurants, cafés, bars, VIP Lounge, duty-free shop, newsagent, pharmacy, baby/parent room, disabled access facilities, gift shop, travel agent, tourist help desk, car rental and taxi service.

The contact details for Nguriii Rai InteTnational Airport are: tel: 0361-751025, 751011.

If leaving Bali by air on a domestic airline, you are advised to reconfirm your reservation three days in advance. Some local airlines, particularly Garuda, tend to overbook. Reconfirmatio is usually not required for international airlines, but check in advance with your travel agent.

Check-in two hours before flight time. The international departure tax is Rp150,000; domestic tax is Rp30,000. These can be purlesed at designated counters at the airport. Only cash (in rupiah) is accepted so be sure to set enough rupiah aside, or you can change foreign currency at the airport.

Flying from UK and US

From the UK (and European uties), the easiest direct service with the most number of options into Bali is with Singapore Airlines. The plane will land in Singapore first, from where there are three daily flights to (and from) Bali. Malaysia Airlines also connects to Bali via Kuala Lumpur, Thai Airways via Bangkok, Qatar Airways via Doha and Cathay Pacific via Hong Kong. Check the UK based travel agency, Trailfinders (www.trailfinders.co.uk) for good flight deals.

The only American carrier to serve Bali is Continental Airlines via Hawaii and Guam. Quicker connections can be made by using other international carriers. Japan Airlines, for example, flies from the US to Tokyo and then direct from Tokyo to Bali. Also convenient is Singapore Airlines, which flies out of Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York to Singapore, and then connects thrice daily to Bali. Qatar Airways also connects to Washington and New York via Doha. It is also possible to fly from the US to Asian cities like Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok and Hong Kong, and ten connect to Bali.

Key Airline Office

Key Indonesian Carries

Key International Carriers

By Minivan or Car

Minivan

Families or small groups can hire an air conditionrd minivan with driver for about US$40-50 per day, plus fuel, food and accommodation. This costs about the same as flying, but you get to see more if you plan stopovers and side trips. Remember that prices are always negotiable. You can rent a car in Java and drive to Bali yourself, but thr cost will be about the same as hiring both a driver and car, and there is the added hassle of returing the vehicle.

By Bus

Budget travellers who plan to take the public bis malam (overnight bus) from Java to Bali should be wary of drivers who speed on dark roads (some have been known to fall asleep at the wheel). In addition, professional thieves operate on some buses, stealing your belongings while you are sleeping. In isolated areas, road gangs are known to hold up buses and rob the passengers, perhaps even working in cahoot with the drivers.
Air-conditioned buses to Denpasar from Jakarta (with a ferry connecting the two islands) take 24 hours, from Surabaya 10-12 hours, and from Yogyakarta 15-16 hours. Restaurant and toi-let stops are made along the way. Be sure to specify that you want an air-conditioned bus, but be forewarned that there are no nonsmoking buses and onboard video entertainment is very loud. There are numerous operators and fares vary considerably, depending on the level of comfort you require.

Bus

From Jakarta to Bali, expect to pay around Rp300,000; from Yogyakarta Rp250,000, and from Surabaya Rp150,000. Premium tourist services, such as Perama, will bus you direct from major cities in Java right through to Kuta, Sanur and Ubud.

Perama buses travel daily from the Mandalika terminal in Bertais, Lombok, to Sumbawa, Bali and Java. The cost from Lombok to Bali is Rp150,000 (including the ferry crossing). There are also connections direct to the Gili Islands.
Perama Tours: Jalan Legian No. 39, Kuta, tel: 0361-751551, 0361-751875, fax: 0361-751170, www.peramatourcom.

By Ferry

Ferry

From Java: Ferries ply the 30-minute trip between Gilimanuk in West Bali and Ketapang in East Java. Foot passengers, one-way Rp6,000; motorcycle, Rp18,000; car with passengers, Rp98,000. Note: the cost of the ferry ride is  included in the service offered by most of the bus services.

From Lombok: From Lembar, Lombok, the regular ferries take 4 hours to reach Padangbai in East Bali. The ticket costs Rp32,000. Contact Perama for transport packages that include land transfers and ferry tickets.

There are two fast boat services: Gill Cat (www.gilicat.com), daily to Padangbai, Rp600,000 one-way; and Blue WateT Safari (www.bwsbali.com), daily to Benoa Harbour, Rp600,000 one-way.
Note: all departures are from Teluk Kode (mainland Lombok) and Gili Trawangan.

Getting Around

From the Airport

From the airport, it takes approximately 15 minutes to reach Tuban and Kuta, 20-25 minutes to Legian, 30 minutes to Seminyak, 40 minutes to Kerobokan, 45-50 minutes to Canggu, 25 minutes to Sanur, 20 minutes to Nusa Dua, 10 minutes to Jimbaran, 75 minutes to Ubud, and 3 hours to Lovina.

If you have not made prior arrangements with your hotel to pick you up, there is a reliable taxi service from the airport that you can use; fixed rates to various destinations are clearly posted on a board at the counter outside the arrival hall . Pay the cashier at the desk and you will receive a coupon. Be sure to hand this over to your designated taxi driver.
There are no other forms of public transport from the airport apart from airport taxis and hotel pick-up services.

Note: the fixed rates are about 50 percent more expensive than metered taxi rates. If you are on a tight budget and are prepared to haul your luggage outside of the airport gates, you will be able to flag down a taxi by the street and pay the metered fare.

Official Taxi Rates

The official fixed taxi rates from the airport to key destinations are as follows:

Orientation

Roads in Bali are heavily used, not only for traffic but also as a parade ground for escorting deities to the sea and cremation processions. Many roads are not regularly maintained and are speckled with potholes or sometimes partly blocked by piles of gravel unceremoniously dumped at the sides. Traffic jams in the tourism-dense south can be horrific, caused not only by ceremonial processions but also by rush-hour congestion, floods, a truck stuck in a storm drain, or a gaggle of geese — the reasons for these gridlocks are manifold!

Congestion on Jalan Legian and Jalan Seminyak, however, has been considerably eased by the opening of the Sunset Road, which bypasses Kuta, Legian and Seminyak. Likewise, the construction of the new highway to the east coast of Bali has also helped to alleviate traffic problems. Until recently, the only route to the east had been via a congested winding highway, passing directly through the centre of large towns like Gianyar and Klungkung. The new bypass, known as the Sunrise Road, follows the east coast and gives access to the ruggedly beautiful beaches and traditional fishing villages of this area.

Although it is possible to get around Bali in a single day, this is not conducive to having the best possible experience; it’s far better to explore the area you a in rather than to make long treks across the island. Half-day outings are best accomplished starting early, which leaves the rest of the day for relaxing on I:I beach or in a restaurant, taking a stroll through a nearby village or market, and then attending an evening festival or performance.

The main tourist hub is the southern triangle formed by the frenetically busy Kuta/Leglany Seminyak stretch, with the quieter Jimbaran on the west and the relatively more sedate Nusa Dua/Tanjung Benoa and Sanu areas on the east. If you’re a beach lover, enjoy dining out at different restaurant every nighl of the week and like to experience a lively nightlife, then stay in these areas.

Those who prefer something quieter but still close to the beach, should head for Canadasa and Amed on the east coast, Lovina in the north or Pemuteran in the northwest. aware, however, that outside d the south the beaches are petil rather than sandy, or black/gre sand and not white.

Those bent on seeing cultur attractions should base themselves in the Ubud area, where nearby villages in the Gianyar regency provide the opporturili to see arts and crafts, music a dance performances, as well a numerous ancient temples. Denpasar has little of interest apart from the markets and ttr museum. If you like mountain scenery and cooler climes, consider spending some time the Bedugul area near the loud Danau Bratan, or to the east, Danau Batur at the foot of Gunung Batur.

Beaches of South Bali

People who have seen the blinding white sand beaches and clear aquamarine waters of Thailand are invariably disappointed by Bali’s beaches. Because of the island’s volcanic origins, most of the beaches are either grey or black sand, and often pebbly.

Beaches of South Bali

Nusa Dua is among the few stretches of white sand beach on Bali (nicer and wider along the stretch where the Grand Hyatt and Ayodya are located, and a bit narrow and a little less pleasant past the little spit of sand where the Melia hotel is located all the way to the Nusa Dua Hotel). North of Nusa Dua is Tanjung Benoa, which has white sand but is disappoint-ingly calm (for those who like some surf) due to a ring of coral reefs in the distance.

The beach at Sanur is more of a golden hue but only swimmable at high tide; at low tide the water recedes to your waist (or sometimes knees) and is littered with coral and rocks.

The broad stretch of grey sands along Kuta, Legian and Seminyak sees gorgeous mango streaked sunsets when the conditions are right. They are great for beach walks and for frolicking in the surf, boogie boarding, and if you venture far out enough, for surfing  albeit a bit rough for young children and with a strong undertow at times. The sand bed is relatively flat and firm, and free of rocks and other debris. MucDenpasaT same also applies to the beach at Jimbaran.

South of Jimbaran are the stunning white sand beaches of  Uluwatu, Suluban, Padang Padang, Impossibles, Bingin and Balangan. They produce fabulous breaks for surfers but are not safe for swimmers.

Public Transport

Minivans

Minivans (bemo) operate on fixed routes from terminals or marketplaces in cities and major towns. Some transfer points are located at important crossroads. There are no marked places to get of and on; just flag one down and call out “stop” when you want to get out. Fares are based on cistance travelled and always wry cheap, ranging from just a Lew hundred to a few thousand rupiah. Always carry small change with you; you can’t expect a bemo driver to give you change from a Rp50,000, or even a Rp20,000 bank note. Pay the fare just before getting off; estabkshing the correct fare is a different issue altogether as tourists are almost always overcharged.

minivans

As passengers and products of all sorts get loaded off and on, it can get hot and crowded. This mode of transport does take time but allows you to meet the locals; beware of pickpockets, though.

Buses

Major bus terminals are at Tegal in Denpasar (services to Kuta); Kereneng in Denpasar (services 13 points in the city, Batubulan and Sanur); Ubung (services to 7abanan, Singaraja and Jembrana); Batubulan (services to Gianyar, Singaraja, Bangli, Iclungkung and Karangasem) and n Singaraja (services to Jemarena, Tabanan, Denpasar and 4arangasem). Fares are approximately Rp20,000 per 50 kilomeles, and buses operate out of lie same terminals as berm.

Tourist Shuttle Services

Scuttle services operate daily between Kuta, Ubud, Sanur, Lovina and Candidasa. Although rey cost a bit more than buses or :emo, they are faster and more unfortable. Tickets are available m most hotels and tourist agencies. The fares from both Kuta rid the Airport to various other points in Bali are as follows:

Taxis

Taxis are air-conditioned and charge metered fares. The only fixed rates are from the airport to the major hotels. Check with the driver before you board the taxi as many drivers prefer to charge a flat rate instead of using the meter. To be sure you don’t get ripped off, ask your hotel concierge on what the going rate is for the destination you want to get to.

Few taxis outside of the Kuta Legian-Seminyak area cruise the streets for passengers, so call one of the numbers below (or ask your hotel concierge to call a taxi for you). The best company is Bali Taxi (Bluebird Group), with light blue cabs and a reputation for providing reliable, safe and honest service. The meters run at approximately Rp4,500 per kilometer with a flag fall rate of Rp5,000. If you call a taxi, the minimum charge is Rp10,000. Most drivers speak some English, especially Bali Taxi drivers. Bali Taxi: tel: 0361-701111 (complaints tel: 0361-701621) Komotra: tel: 0361-758855.

There are very few taxis in Ubud. The only ones you will see are those that have brought pas-sengers from other tourist areas and are hoping for a fare back. You can arrange private transport with your hotel or negotiate a fare with one of the many young men offering transport on the street.

Motorcycle Taxis

Young men operate motorcycle taxis known as ojek, and they wait at designated places for customers. This is very convenient for locations not serviced by public transport. Agree on the price beforehand, and make sure you wear the helmet that the driver provides, as it’s required by law. The drivers do tend to weave in and out of heavy traffic but are usually very experienced. Fares are negotiable, usually just a few thousand rupiah for a short journey and no more than about half of what you would pay for a taxi.

Vehicle with Driver

Chartering a car or minivan with driver can be done by the half-day or full-day. Tip: rates are cheaper if negotiated on the street rather than from your hotel (look out for young men who call out “transpor transpor” and move their hands as if driving a car).

Rates vary according to the kind of vehicle, its condition, actual travel time, and total number of hours hired. This amount should include fuel. Full-day rates generally range from about Rp300,000-500,000. Half-a-day will cost Rp150,000-300,000. Alternatively you can rent a car yourself and pay about Rp50,000 extra per day for the services of an English-speaking driver.

It is courteous to give your driver money for a meal if you stop for lunch or dinner, or you may even invite him to dine with you (although some drivers may feel shy about doing this). If you are pleased with the driver, a tip of Rp30,000 is appropriate. You will usually get a better rate if you arrange to use the same driver for all the trips during your stay.

If you’re not comfortable chartering a vehicle off the street, contact a tour agency or your hotel (which can also arrange for a guide) to get you a vehicle and driver for an hour, day or month. Rates will be substantially higher though. Reliable operators include: Bali Trip Transport Service & Car Rental: Jalan Raya Sayan, Ubud, tel: 0361-974923.
Perama Tours: Jalan Legian 39, Kuta, tel: 0361-751551, 751875; www.peramatourcom. GNIJaya: Jalan Merta Sari No. 9, Kerobokan, tel: 0361-735258.

Private Car Hire

Driving in Bali can be dangerous. Generally, drivers do not drive defensively, the roads are narrow and poorly maintained, and stray dogs and chickens frequently dart into the road. Street lighting at night is limited. If you collide with anything, you are responsible for all costs. It’s safer to hire a driver while you relax and enjoy the sights.

Self-drive cars are available in Sanur, Kuta and Ubud, for which you must have an International Driving Permit. It’s also advisable to pay the extra cost to ensure you have full insurance coverage. Petrol is not included in the price. You can book a car through your hotel or from any of the companies listed below. They will deliver the car to you and pick it up at the end of the rental period. Always test-drive the car and check that it is in good working order before paying. Note: Drive on the left side of the road.

Prices (per day) range between US$20—$35 for a Suzuki Jeep to US$30—$45 for a larger Toyota Kijang. These rates should include collision insurance, unlimited mileage and pick-up and delivery service.

The following rental agencies are recommended:

Motorcycle Hire

Motorcyles are a convenient and inexpensive way to get around the island, but there are risks due to heavy traffic and poor roads. Helmets are required by the law but the cheap ones provided by rental agencies offer little protection. Bring your own or buy a good one from a local shop, especially one with a face shield for protection from sun, rain, bugs and dust. Drive slowly and defensively, as more and more locals and tourists are injured or killed every year in accidents.

The cost of motorbike hire varies according to the model, condition of the machine, length of rental, and time of year. Expect to pay around Rp25,000— 50,000 per day. Petrol is not included. Buy full insurance so that you are not responsible for any damage. Be sure to test drive it to check that everything is in working order, especially brakes and lights. Most rental bikes are 125cc or smaller.

Motorcycle Hire

You must have an International Driving Permit valid for motorcycles, or else go to the Denpasar Police Office to obtain a temporary permit, valid for three months on Bali only. Normally the person who rents you the motorbike will accompany you to the police office. Bring your passport, driving licence from your home country, and three passport-sized photos.

Bicycles

Mountain bikes are available for rent everywhere, but before you pay for one, make sure the wheels are properly aligned, the brakes work well, and that there is a working light. Because of the hazardous main roads, stick to the quieter country roads for maximum enjoyment. The remarkable thing is that when you are actually pedalling, you don’t feel the heat just a cool breeze. The real sweat begins when you stop, so be sure to carry a bottle of water and to continue to drink frequently to replenish the fluid that is lost.

Bicycles

Wear a helmet for extra safety. and try not to ride at night because roads are very poorly lit. or not lit at all. Prices vary from Rp15,000 to Rp50,000 per day.

On Foot

Once off the main roads, walking can be a pleasant way to see Bali. Remember to wear a sun-hat, sunscreen and good walki shoes. In your backpack carry bottled water, food or snacks, insect repellent, and an umbrella in case of rain or too much sun.

Hitchhiking just isn’t done an: most people will not understanc what you are doing. This doesn’t mean that you can’t ask for a ride, but trying to get a free ride from a stranger is unusual.

Dokar

Dokar (2-wheeled horse drawn buggies), extinct elsewhere in Bali, are a tourist attraction in Kuta area. Expect to pay arou Rp10,000-20,000 in Kuta for short ride.

Police Checks

When riding a motorbike or drying a car, it is not uncomrr or to be flagged down by the police at a spot check point You will be asked to show your driving licence and vehicle reg-istration papers. If you do no have these documents with you, you will be expected to pay a “fine”, a negotiable t usually around Rp100,000

Central And South Lombok

Isolated villages in the cooler central produce handicrafts such as ikat cloth, ceramics and baskets. As you head south, there is magnificent coastal scenery, including splendid beaches better than any you’ll find in neighbouring Bali

Central Lombok, located on the southern slopes of Gunung Rinjani, is cooler and more lush than the south, receiving much rainfall in the wet season and protected by forests and jungle throughout the rest of the year. Traditional villages dot the slopes, with livelihoods centred on handicrafts such as pottery, textiles, woven grass and bamboo crafts, and woodworking. Continuing south, away from the mountains, the landscape becomes much drier and fields of tobacco, corn, cassava and peanuts become the norm. On reaching the south coast, the landscape opens up to reveal a long coastline with some of the most sublime beaches and views in Indonesia.

Around Lenek

Heading from the east coast on the main road from Labuhan Lombok is Lenek. This whole area has many small villages whose people still practise adat Sasak (traditional customs). Well known as a source of traditional Sasak music and dance, Lenek also offers tani pepakon, a medicinal trance dance. A local cultural patron of the arts has established an organisation to reinvigorate the performing arts in Lenek.

To the west is Pringgasela e, a village steeped in tradition and a major centre for ikat weaving. Visit the small houses and shops here to purchase traditionally woven fabrics.

Southeast of Lenek is Bonjeruk, a village of dalang (puppeteers) for the shadow play wayang sasak; many of the puppets are made here. Past Bonjeruk is Masbagik, most well known as a centre of pottery and ceramic crafts; the pottery made here has distinctive geometric pattterns.

Loyok and Tetebatu

Following the main road another few kilometres further west, a road leads north to Loyok, a small dusty village where the families make traditional woven products, using rattan, grasses and bamboo. The baskets, boxes, mats and other weaving are of good quality and often sent to Bali, where they fetch much higher prices. Visit the shops and the family compounds out at the back, where often several generations of the same family weave.

Continuing north is Tetebatu, on the southern slopes of Gunung Rinjani. This is a cool mountain retreat with beautiful rice terraces, forests and bright green fields of tobacco. It is wet and misty during the rainy season, and cool and lush during the dry. To the north of Tetebatu, about an hour’s trekking through a monkey-filled forest, is a nice waterfall called Jeruk Manis. It’s best to take a local guide with you, as there have been security problems in the past.

Praya, Sukarara & Penujak

About half-an-hour drive southeast of Cakranegara, Praya is a crossroads and the hub of the south. Home of the Saturday market, it is close to many handicraft villages.

Some 5 km (3 miles) to the we of Praya is the weaving village of Sukarara, where traditional ikat fabric is made. Weavers work outside many of the shops, using antiquated back strap looms tc painstakingly produce works of art. Some of the larger pieces can take several months to weave, and collectors from around the world visit this village to purchase the blankets. sarongs and cloth produced here.

South of Praya is Penujak, one of Lombok’s main pottery making centres. Shops and workshops line the main road, and local children will run out to greet you and guide you into the shops when you arrive. Penujak pottery uses mainly animal motifs, including frogs and geckos as decoration.

Rembitan and Sade

Travelling down to the south coast, you pass small farming villages drier, flatter landscape compared the north to Rembitan village first on the right, and then Sade on the left along the main road just before Kuta. These are traditional Sasak villages sandwiched between the main road and the rice fields. Rembitan is a popular tourist stop with clusters of thatched lumbung, or rice barns. Sade is a more authentic hilltop village with the oldest mosque in Lombok, Mesjid Kuno. This ancient, thatched-roof house of worship can only be entered by Muslims. Both villages are interesting examples of traditional Sasak architecture and communal living. Residents, who act as guides for a small fee, encourage walks through either of the two villages.

Kuta

Kuta, on the south coast, lags behind Senggigi in development, but still has a decent variety of accommodation and restaurants. Kuta has a beautiful white sand beach, and is located about 45 km (28 miles) from Cakranegara or 1½ hours’ drive from Senggigi. It is a good base for exploring the beautiful southern coastline. Kuta and the surrounding region has gained a reputation for having some of the best surfing spots in Southeast Asia. It is here that the gentle waters of Lombok meet the currents of the Indian Ocean, forming great surf breaks and fantastic vistas of cliffs, headlands and beaches carved out of the rugged southern coastline.

The stylish Novotel Coralia on Mandalika beach is in an excellent location and is reasonably priced; smaller Kuta hotels and homestays are cheaper options. Kuta market (Wed and Sun mornings) is a lively cacophony of chickens and friendly locals, and is brightened by an array of colourful fruits and woven baskets. Mandalika beach is also the site of the annual Bau Nyale festival, just to the east of the Novotel Coralia hotel. This unusual event, which is primarily a secular gathering, attracts over 100,000 people every year.

Tanjung Ean and Gerepuk

East of Kuta are a series of beautiful, untouched beaches. Tanjung Aan has spectacular scenery off the peninsula, with a few vendor shacks and a virtually undisturbed white sand beach. Another 3 km (2 miles) east is the beach and fishing village of Gerupuk, located on the spit of land that juts out into the ocean, with stunning views of the sea and the surrounding islands and bays. Gerupuk is well known as a surf location and ideal for windsurfing or bodysurfing.

East of Gerupuk

Further east, just beyond Batu Nampar village, is the little-visited village of Batu Rintang. With traditional thatched rice barns and huts, it offers an honest look at local life. Outside Batu Nampar are salt works and floating seaweed frames, farmed by migrants from South Sulawesi and Madura.

Continuing around the bay, northeast of Batu Nampar is Jerowaru, site of a Thursday market. To the south is Ekas, a magnificent bay framed by cliffs overlooking the breathtaking coast. Further east on the east coast is Tanjung Luar, site of a major fish market and inhabited by Bugis fishermen from Sulawesi, who arrived here during the early 1600s.

Mawun and Selong Blanak

About 30 minutes drive to the we of Kuta, the beach at Mawun rings a perfect half-moon bay, popular for swimming and picnicking There are good right- and left-hand barrels for surfing here when the swell is large enough. This deserted off-the-beaten-track beach, flankez by massive headlands, is barren trees, which rather accentuates the spectacular scenery and sound of the crashing waves. Apart from the occasional fisherman, it is likely thac you’ll have this fine beach all tc yourself. It also can be reached by bicycle from Kuta, although the road is a bit steep.

Further west, a picturesque little fishing village lies on the fringe of Selong Blanak beach. Instead of detracting from the beauty of the sweeping beach, the village adds to its charm. Colourful fishing outriggers rock in the gentle waves on the bay’s east end. The villagers mak, their living from fishing, especially for squid. White, sugary sand skin-the gorgeous bay, but what make-this place so stunning is the scale c the surrounding landscape is of continental proportions.

Southwest coast

The road to the southwest coast is in very poor condition and has had a problem with roadside robberies in the past. This coast is best accessei by returning to Praya and taking the main road west from there.

Lembar, about an hour south- of Ampenan on the southwest coal is the centre of Lombok’s shipping transport and the harbour for boats arriving from Bali and the west.

Gerung, inland to the east, is the village of the famous cepung men’s social dance during which they read and sing from the Lo Monyet (Monkey Manuscript), tuak (palm wine), dance and vocally imitate gamelan instruments. After Lemar, the road south winds first around the wide natural harbour and through small villages set in valleys, where natural clay is harvested from the hillsides and used to manufacture bricks. The small coastal villages rely mainly on fishing and you will see floating fishing platforms made of bamboo and known as `bagan’ sit-ting in the shallow tidal waters.

Finally, the road opens out into the breathtaking scenery of Sekotong, where the waters turn turquoise and the sand blindingly white. The large calm bay just before Taun (Sekotong Barat) is one of the most beautiful on Lombok, reminiscent of the Caribbean. Investors are snapping up real estate in the area, quick to see the potential, with at least one major resort development occupying the hillside overlooking the sea.

Just off the coast lie three small islands: Gili Nanggu with its soft white sand and sparkling clear waters, Gili Sudat and Gili Tangkong. Gili Nanggu has a small basic hotel and the island is perfect as a castaway escape, with reasonable snorkelling off the beach. There is a signposted parking area at Sekotong Barat where small boats can be chartered to explore these lovely islands.

Winding down the coast, the road hugs the bays and beaches that make up the magical southwest, with views of the many small, undeveloped islands sitting just offshore and the outline of Bali on the horizon. At Pelangan is a small hotel, and boats can be chartered here to explore the numerous islands off the coast, including the huge Gili Gede island.

The road southward deteriorates dramatically, although it is still passable in the dry season. Winding through tiny villages, it continues to the southwesternmost point of Lombok a sheer cliff framing Bangko Bangko beach. Bangko Bangko juts into the sea, forming a junction with the Indian Ocean and creating incredible surf breaks that attract serious surfers from around the world. It regularly rates as one of the top five surf destinations in Southeast Asia. Wild and desolate, the lime-stone cliffs here have been carved by the tides and the surrounding scenery is dramatically beautiful.

Bau Nyale Festival

The Bau Nyale festival commemorates the legend of the beautiful Putri (Princess) Mandalika, who was much sought after as a bride by every king in Lombok. According to local lore, the princess was so torn between the suitors that she threw herself into the sea, crying out, “Kuta” (“Wait for me here”) in the local Sasak language. When she disappeared into the waves below, hundreds of nyale sea worms floated to the surface.

Thus, every February, when the conditions are right, the nyale worms return to the site. People come from all over Lombok to collect the ugly sea worms, which are fried and eaten (the worms are said to be an aphrodisiac).A dukun (priest) will wade into the sea to observe the spawning nyale and predict the impending rice harvest based on the number of worms that appear.

Bau Nyale is the only time of the year when young people on this staunch Muslim island are permitted to strut and flirt openly. When night falls, the youngsters will compete with each other by singing pantun, an improvised poetry of rhyming couplets, and watch men fighting the peresean.

Restaurant

Central Lombok

Indonesian

Wisma Soedjono

Tetebatu, Central Lombok. Mobile tel: 0818-544265. Open: daily B, L & D. $
Set high on the hillside with beautiful views of the surrounding country¬side, this restaurant is the most popular in the area. Serves inexpensive Indonesian and Sasak food; some Western-style snacks also avail¬able. The sate and nasi :amour are very good, as is the Sasak vegetable dish, urap-urap with freshly grated coconut.

South Lombok

International

Family Café

Jalan Raya, Kuta. Tel: 0370- 653748. Open: daily B, L & D. $
Right on the main street of Kuta, this friendly café is good for dining and meeting people. A good range of Western dishes and the usual Indone¬sian and Sasak speciali¬ties are served.

Novotel Coralia

Mandalika Beach, Kuta. Tel: 0370-653333. Open: daily B, L & D. $$$ www.novotel-lomhok.com
With two restaurants within this beautifully designed resort, the Novotel offers the best dining in the south and lovely views of the ocean.

Kafe Chilli is the less expensive of the two and serves good Western meals, includ¬ing wood-fired pizzas and tasty pasta dishes.

Empat Ikan, the resort’s main dining restaurant, serves beautifully prepared seafood, including fresh lobster, served in a variety of styles, and Australian beef fillet with wild mushrooms. During peak seasons, there are often theme dinners with Sasak entertainment by the beachside.

North And East Lombok

Trekking in the Rinjani National Park and its vicinity brings you to awesome forests and waterfalls. More adventurous spirits may prefer climbing Gunung Rinjani, an internationally recognised eco-tourism site, or teeing-off in the world-class Kosaido Golf Course.

North Lombok is reached by two main roads, both in good condition and providing different scenic tours of the north. The coastal road that runs from Ampenan all the way up the west coast to the north provides stunning views of the many beautiful bays and beaches that line the west coast, as well as vistas over the Gili islands and Bali to the west.

fending wild monkey at the Pusuk Pass

The Pusuk Pass, a winding mountain road, starts in Gunungsari, north of Mataram, and runs through the mountains inland, terminating at Pemenang in the aorth. The drive up the pass provides wonderful views of valleys and gorges, with rivers running through the tropical forests and small villages scattered among the trees. Families of grey monkeys live im the jungle and sometimes come down to the road to beg for food from passing motorists. Beyond Pemenang, the northern coastal road binds past stunning seascapes and sparsely populated village communities. Heading inland from Anyar leads to the lofty Gunung Rinjani, the main attraction in this area.

Pemenang and Bangsal

Pemenang is the crossroads where the coastal road meets the Pasuk Pass road with Jalan Raya and continues north around the island.

The road to the west only runs about 1 km (½ mile) to Bangsal Harbour, which is the main point of departure for public boats to the beautiful Gili islands. The road is blocked about halfway down at a parking area, and you must continue on foot about another 400 metres (450 yds) to the beach. Cidomo (horse cart) drivers will entice you to pay high prices for the ride to the beach, but it isn’t that far. Note: the harbour area is rife with pesky touts who hang around trying to force travellers to charter boats and buy goods before going to the islands. All the supplies found on the mainland can be purchased at the Gili islands, so ignore the overpriced mosquito repellent and water bottles sold here. Don’t let anyone touch your bag and if you do use a porter, negotiate a price beforehand of around Rp 2,000 per bag. Tickets for the public boats out to the islands can be purchased from the large white building directly to the left on the beach, and boat charters can also be organised from here, with fixed prices clearly displayed inside the building.

Pantai Sira and Tanjung Medana

Further north, a small signposted road branches off from the main road to Pantai Sira, a beautiful white sand beach with fine snorkelling on the offshore coral reef. This is also the site for the Kosaido Golf Course, a stunning world-class 18-hole golf course with magnificent views of the sea from the manicured greens.

the beautiful white sand beach at Pantai Sira

On the tip of the next peninsula north at Tanjung Medana is a small temple, Pura Medana    (daily 8am-5pm; donation) with wonderful sunset views and a peaceful atmosphere. On the road out to the temple is the lovely Medana Resort and, at the very end, the luxurious Oberoi Lombok, in a breathtakingly beautiful location right on the beach.

Tanjung and Gondang

About 4 km (2 miles) north of Pun Medana is Tanjung, a large village with numerous warung and shops, and one of the few public wartel (telephone offices) on the island. Muslims, Hindus and Buddhists live here and as a result. a wide variety of ceremonies originate from this area. Tanjung has an interesting market every day and on Sunday, a cattle market where cows goats and horses from all over the island are bought and sold.

Up the coast is Gondang. a small town near a good beach. Tiu Pupus Waterfalls are a 20-minutes walk beyond the end of a poorly marked, rocky road. The spring fed falls are disappointing during the dry season, but otherwise flow into a deep pool where you can swim. Alternatively, trek to the traditional Sasak village of Kerurak. Another 30-minute trek leads to the Kerta Gangga Waterfalls, with three beautiful waterfalls set in the jungle.

Segenter

Travel about 20 km (16 miles) from Gondang and head inland at Sukadana to find the dusty, traditional village of Segenter Q. It provides a glimpse into the harsh reality of life on the island’s dry side. The 300 villagers in this northern interior village eke out a living growing corn and beans, yet they welcome visitors with a smile and proudly share their simple life with tours through the village.

Bayan

Back on the coastal road, turning right at Anyar leads to Bayan, an old village that maintains old dance and poetic traditions, as well as kemidi rudat, a theatre based on the fables, Thousand and One Nights. The village is also the site of the phenomenal Alip festival held once every three years. Bayan is the home of the Wektu Telu religion, which combines the practices of Islam with Hinduism, Buddhism and animist beliefs. The adherents of Wektu Telu (meaning “three times”) pray at three different periods and acknowledge three types of important ceremonies: human rites mbirth, marriage, death), Islamic ceremonies (Maulid, Lebaran) and cyclical rites associated with agriculture and farming.

Wektu Telu rituals have dimin-ished to a point that few people on Lombok identify themselves as such today. Most of the remaining Wektu Telu festivals are at the start of the October—December rainy season or else the April—May harvest. One of lie island’s oldest and most important Wektu Telu mosques is in Bayan.

Senaru

Thundering Sendang Gile Waterfalls

The inland road from Bayan leads to Senaru village, the gateway to Rinjani National Park (daily 8am-6pm; admission charge; guide fees extra), a nature reserve of 41,330 hectares (100,000 acres) that surrounds Gunung Rinjani volcano. The whole area is a picturesque haven, featuring magnificent waterfalls, lush and accessible jungle treks, traditional villages, and plantations of tobacco and cashew nuts, tended alongside verdant rice terraces. Tropical animal species and rare tropical birds like the blacknaped oriole live in the surrounding jungle, as well as abundant varieties of plants and flowers.

The Sendang Gile Waterfalls at Senaru are among Lombok’s most spectacular, even after negotiating the tiring descent down the 200 steps to stand below the thundering falls. The water cascades in a steep vertical drop down the hillside into a rocky stream below. Guides can be hired from the restaurant near the car park for the short trek through the jungle to the lovely Tiu Kelep Waterfalls nearby, where the water flows into a pool at the base, and is great for swimming.

Climbing Gunung Rinjani

Senaru is the usual starting point for climbing Lombok’s famous volcano, Gunung Rinjani. Other options, for a slightly shorter route to the summit, are Sembalun Lawang and Sembalun Bumbung to the east.

Rinjani soars some 3,726 metres (12,224 ft) above sea level and is the second highest volcano in Indonesia, attracting thousands of trekkers and climbers annually. The huge crater near the top contains a beautiful crescent-shaped lake, Danau Segara Anak (Child of the Sea Lake). A smaller volcanic cone, Gunung Baru Jail, juts out from one side of the crater. There are a number of caves, small waterfalls and hot springs scattered around the volcano, most important of which is Air Kaiak on the northeast of the crater, where the volcanically heated waters are said to cure illnesses, particularly skin diseases.

Danau Segara Anak, the crater lake of Gunung Rinjani

In 2004, the Rinjani Trek won the prestigious World Legacy Award and the volcano is recognised internationally as an important ecotourism destination. In 2000, however, there was a lot of bad press due to a series of robberies on the mountain and tourists were warned to avoid the area. Thankfully, the culprits were caught and since then there have been fewer problems. thanks largely to local initiatives is setting up police posts in the area and proper licensing and training oil trekking guides.

The Rinjani Trek, funded by the New Zealand government, has set up a series of programmes few climbing the volcano and for trekking in the Rinjani National Park, all of which involve the 143.4..4 communities. Still, it is always prudent to use an authorised guide (preferably equipped with two-way radio), deal with a reputable trekking business and carry as feu valuables as possible with you.

For details, contact the Rinjani Trek Centre at the Hotel Lombok Raya in Mataram (Jalan Usaha No. 11, tel: 0370-641124, 632305; www.lomboksumbawa.com) or the office in Senaru (daily 7am-5pm; mobile tel: 081-9331 67395).

Sembalun Bumbung and Sembalun Lawang

Branching off the main coastal road from Bayan, a smaller road runs inland through the mountains with wonderful scenery of dense forests opening up to valley vistas and towering mountain ranges. Sembalun Bumbung 0 is located in a high, cool valley on the slopes of Guntmg Rinjani, along with a neighbouring village, Sembalun Lawang. Both are surrounded by lush fields and valleys planted with garlic, and fruit and vegetables which thrive in the cooler climate. Both villages are alternative points to Senaru for climbing Gunung Rinjani and there are a number of tourist agencies which organise treks in the region, as well as several small homestays.

The road through the mountains is ,teep and rough in places, and eventually ends in Sapit, a pleasant mountain village to the southeast.

Restaurant North Lombok

International

Medana Resort

Jalan Medana, Tanjung. Tel: 0370-628000,628100. Open: daily B, L & D. $$ www.lombokmedana.com

The open-air restaurant of this beachside hotel has some lovely views of the sea and serves a selection of unpreten¬tious European dishes and Indonesian speciali¬ties, along with wines and cocktails from the poolside.

Oberoi Lombok

Jalan Mendana Tanjung. Tel: 0370-643602
Sunbird Café : open daily B & L. $$$
Lumbung : open daily D. $$$$ www.oberoihotels.com

This world-class resort, commanding fantastic views from its beachfront location, has some of the best upmarket dining in Lombok. The Sunbird Café, overlooking the beach, has an innovative Continental and Asian menu. The dinner-only Lumbung restaurant with its sophisticated cuisine has stunning views across the expansive infinity pool and a romantic atmosphere.

Indonesian

Pondok Senaru & Restaurant

Rinjani National Park, Senaru. Mobile Tel: 0812 374 9915. Open daily B, L & D. $
Attractive restaurant with fine views over the rice terraces and foothills. Serves sandwiches for snacks, and more substantial Indonesian meals at lunch and dinner.

EAST LOMBOK

Continuing on the main road around the island, the route passes coastal scenery on the left and mountain vistas on the right, eventually traversing the north coast and descending into the east. Travellers, in comparison to the west coast, infrequently visit this part of Lombok and many of the villages in eastern Lombok are strongly Islamic. Note: there have been reports of harassment in the past and Westerners are viewed with suspicion in some of the more remote areas.

The coastline is extremely beautiful, with many pristine beaches and wonderful views across the water to neighbouring Sumbawa. Labuhan Lombok, also sometimes called Kayangan, is the eastern port with regular ferries departing for Sumbawa and the islands to the east. Although transportation and lodging are difficult, worth visiting are Labuhan Pandan on the east coast, with some stunning deserted beaches and fine snorkelling, and Labuhan Haji, with its beautiful beach on the southeastern coast.

Restaurant East Lombok

Pondok Matahari

Labuhan Pandan, East Lom¬bok. Mobile tel: 0812 374 9915. Open: daily B, L & D. $
The restaurant at this small hotel serves simple Indonesian meals.

The Gili Island

Tropical island aficionados declare these islands perfect for snorkelling and diving, or just plain lolling about. If picture-perfect white sand beaches lapped by aquamarine waters that shelter colourful coral reefs and fish are not sufficient draws, head for Gili Trawangan the “party island”

The three Gili islands lie just off the northwest coast of Lombok. For years they have attracted visitors from around the world for their pristine waters, great diving and snorkelling as well as funky laidback charm. The word “Gili” means “small island”, and so these islands have come to be known as the “Gill’s” by travellers. Tropical island aficionados have long considered the Gili’s to be on par with the appeal of Thailand’s south coast island havens and the coral atolls of Maldives.

Over the past decade, each of the Gili’s has developed a unique personality. Although previously the domain of backpackers and more intrepid travellers, word has gar around and the Gili islands now attract a diverse range of visitors. from serious diving enthusiasts Is families and couples of all ages.

The Gili’s are small, flat coral islands with sparse vegetation and rainfall, and it can seem much hotter here than on the mainland. There is no fresh water on the Gili’s, so prepared for salt-water show Water is drawn from wells or shipper from the mainland, so there is a to conserve the islands’ limited waif resources. Drink only bottled wat eat well cooked food, and, if stayri_ in budget hotels, choose places mosquito nets. There are no cars motorbikes on the islands, and tn_ main form of transport, apart frc7 bicycles and walking, is by delightful cidomo (horse-drawn cart).

A good number of reputable internationally accredited dive operators based in Lombok organise trips to the Gili islands. While m of the coral in the shallow waters been destroyed by dynamite fis and coral bleaching caused El Nino in 1997, there is still an inaresting array of fish to see in waters directly off the beaches greater depths and at the specific dive locations around the three islands, the pristine waters are home to an abundant variety of corals, aquatic life and thousands of species of tropical fish.

The Gili’s are easily reached from the mainland by boats from Bangsal Harbour, or through the tour and dive operators in Senggigi. Many of the larger hotels on the islands also provide speedboat transfers for guests.

Gili Air

Gili Air is the island closest to the mainland and the most easily accessed of the three Gili’s. This island has the largest local popula¬tion of the three and combines the charm of a tropical island with easy access to the people and culture that that has made Lombok so special.

Much of the development is on the east coast, facing Lombok and the towering Gunung Rinjani, which provides spectacular sunrises; sunsets over Gunung Agung on Bali are visi ble from the south and western coasts of Gili Air. The best beaches are also found on the east side, with clear turquoise waters and soft white sand.

Diving facilities abound and there is good snorkelling directly from the shore, particularly from the east and northeast beaches. Air Wall, off the west coast, is a popular dive site, with soft corals that gleam yellow and orange in the sunlight, and harbour scorpion fish and thousands of glassfish. In the deeper waters are white tip reef sharks and schools of larger fish species.

Dream Divers (tel: 0370-634547; www.dreamdivers.com), a PADI operation with experienced Western and local instructors can take you out to some of the best spots for diving.

Gili Air also attracts surfers: with the right conditions, there is a good surf break off the south of the island.

There is a good range of accommodation on Gili Air, from simple homestays to more expensive hotels with all the attendant creature comforts. Dining opportunities range from good quality restaurants to simple warung on the beach and, while the bars aren’t as loud as on Gili Trawangan, there are still plenty of opportunities to have fun.

Reatauran in Gili Air

International

Coconut Cottages

East Coast, to the north of the main restaurant strip. Tel: 0370-635365. Open: daily B, L & D.$ www.coconuts-giliair.com
Set back from the beach in a cool coconut grove, This very popular hotel serves good seafood dishes, as well as European and Indonesian meals in the restaurant and the pavilions in the garden. During peak seasons it serves an excellent buffet with tasty amries and Sasak food at a very reasonable price.

Restaurant Gill Air

Gili Air Hotel. Tel: 0370- 543580. Open: daily B, L & 1 5$. www.hotelgiliair.com
Expect the usual mix of coal and Western dishes at this casual, laidback eatery, but with a slightly higher standard than elsewhere on the island. In addition, there is a nightly barbecue of ether seafood or meat.

Gili Meno

Gill Meno is the middle and smallest island of the three, with the lowest population. It is not as developed as Gili Trawangan or Gili Air, and the pace is much slower. Small hotels and basic beachside huts pro¬vide accommodation for those seeking uncrowded beaches, clean waters and quiet walks under the star-filled skies.

The landscape is flat, with coconut groves inland and a small lake hi the west from which the locals harvest meagre supplies of salt. Meno Wall, off the west coast, is a popular dive site, with many varieties of marine life found at depths of 18 metres (60 ft). Hawksbill and green turtles call the waters around Gili Meno home, particularly on the northwest corner, and the reefs just offshore feature outcrops of brilliant blue coral.

The main development is on the east side, which has a stunning wide beach. The string of beachside bars and warung along this stretch provide plenty of opportunities for viewing spectacular sunrises and sunsets over the volcanoes.

Restaurant Gili Meno

International

Bibi’s Café

Ville Nautilus, East Coast. No Telephone. Open: daily B, L & SS. www.villanautilus.com
Small stylish restaurant Gili Meno’s most luxu¬cus resort. Serves the usual mix of local and Western food with an emphasis on freshly caught seafood.

Blue Marlin Dive & Café

East Coast. Tel: 0370-639979. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
This popular dive shop near the harbour is open for breakfast and has a good selection of Western and Indonesian dishes for lunch and dinner. It also serves good value sandwiches and burgers, steaks and seafood dishes, as well as a full range of drinks and cocktails.

Gili Trawangan

Gili Trawangan is furthest from the mainland and the largest island, complete with a small hill at its southern end. This is the most famous of the three Gill’s, with a reputation as “the party island” – thanks to the many wild parties held at bars and restaurants on the island. Thankfully there is more to Gili Trawangan than its party island fame.

Backpackers flock here to enjoy the gorgeous white sand beaches, cheap accommodation, and (natu-rally) the parties held at different locations every night. Other more upmarket travellers stay at the bet¬ter hotels and spend their days relaxing in the sun or diving.

There is good snorkelling just off the shore with waters that teem with  a still abundant variety of tropical fish species. Strong currents are sometimes a bother, especially in the strait with neighbouring Gili Meno. Further out are vast gardens of coral, regarded as one of the best dive spots in Lombok, particularly Shark Point to the east of the island, which is home to white tip reef sharks, green and hawksbill turtle, eels, hard and soft corals, and a fascinating array of marine life.

The hill in the south of the island is a great lookout from which to enjoy the spectacular sunsets across the ocean to Bali; or in the morning the brilliant sunrise over Gunung  Rinjani on Lombok. On the far south. end of the hill are remnants of old WWII Japanese gun emplacements and crumbling bunkers, but the handdug tunnels have been blocked up.

The main development is on the east coast, particularly southeast in the area called “Sentral”, where boats dock. There are also some hotels on the north coast, which offer peaceful alternatives. Gili Trawangan has the best tourism infrastructure including shops, tour agencies, moneychangers and Internet cafés.

Restaurant Gili Trawangan

Indian

Pesona Restaurant Pesona Resort

Sentral. Tel: 0370-6607233. Open: daily L & D. $$ www.pesonaresort.com
Beachfront restaurant with a romantic setting and a wide range of Indian dishes, some Western dishes and a nightly seafood barbecue. Attached is the Sheesha Lounge and Cocktail Bar.

International

Horizontal

Sentral, East Coast. Tel: 0370- 639248. Open: daily L& D. $$ In a prime location overlooking a beautiful beach, this bar and lounge has upmarket and stylish decor, a chill-out lounge and a fantastic range of cocktails. It also serves delicious and innovative food, including tapas and gourmet pizzas, with fine dining at night. Late night, the lounge grooves to chill-out tunes and the beautiful people come out to play. You’ll be forgiven if you think you’re in Bali’s Seminyak beach.

Waves Restaurant Vila Ombak

East Coast. Tel: 0370-642336. Open: daily L & D. $$$ www.hotelombak.com
This upmarket resort has tables on the beach at night and a good selection of seafood and inter-national dishes, wines and desserts. The buffet and theme dinners are usually good value, with the catch of the day displayed on ice at the front. The restaurant upstairs is nice for lunch, with some interesting salads, wood-fired pizzas, burgers and Asian-fusion treats.

Seafood

The Beach House

Sentral, East Coast. Mobile tel: 0813-39747459. Open: daily B, L & D. $$ www.beachhousegilit.com
This is very popular bar and restaurant, located directly on the beachfront. The nightly barbecue features a delicious array of fresh fish, lobsters, prawns, crabs and squid, in addition to imported steaks from Australia. The great atmosphere and full bar and cocktail facilities make this one of the best on Gili Trawangan.

Scallywags

South Coast. Tel: 0370- 631945. Open: daily B, L & D. $$$
Popular all-day café with a variety of seafood and other dishes. Have your fish, prawn or lobster either grilled plain or cooked Continental style, like the pan-seared coral trout with manchego salad, and the signature dish of tempura sardines drizzled with apple sauce. A seafood barbecue features nightly. Free Wi-Fi.

Wrap a Snapper

Sentral. Tel: 0370-642217. Open: daily L & D. $ Originally from Seminyak, Bali, and now firmly a part of the local eating out scene, this restaurant specialises in English-style fish and chips: fresh fish filleted and coated in a light batter and then deep-fried. The accompanying french fries is perfect. Other seafood dishes feature on the menu too.

west lombok

West Lombok has a tourism infrastructure that almost rivals South Bali but thankfully it doesn’t overwhelm. The wide sandy beaches of Senggigi invite some serious chilling-out, but the more fidgety can also explore old temples, markets and the trio of quaint little towns – Ampenan, Mataram and Cakranegara

The Sasak, a Malay race inhabiting Lombok for at least 2,000 years, probably settled on the island’s coastal areas as long as 4000 years ago. For much of the last 600 years, Lombok was a feudal state with many small kingdoms, some of which followed animistic beliefs, while others practised a combination of animism with Hinduism a Buddhism. Over the centuries, Java influenced Lombok in varying degrees, eventually conquering it in the 14th century and incorporating it aato the Majapahit empire. Several small kingdoms on Lombok were once ruled by Javanese nobles who bad been exiled to Lombok; in fact Sasak aristocracy today still claims Javanese ancestry. Java introduced bath Hinduism and Islam to Lombok, but its religious and political influence waned by the 17th century. blain gradually spread through east-an and central Lombok, while the vest coast, being closer to Bali, was pedominantly Hindu.

From the mid-17th century enviards, the Balinese Karangasem kingdom had colonised Lombok, ruling the island until 1894. Balinese influence always centred in the west, where
Balinese still constitute at least percent of the population today. Balinese king, Anak Agung ah Gede Karangasem, gained extensive influence over western Lombok during the mid-1800s and oversaw development of the arts and the construction of an impressive number of temples. He also restricted the land rights of the Sasak aristocracy on Lombok, introduced an inflexible taxation system, and demanded forced labour of Sasak peasantry. Revolts erupted several times in the 19th century, with Islam the rallying cry among the Sasak.

Sasak leaders approached the Dutch for help in overthrowing Balinese rule in the early 1890s. The Dutch, mistakenly believing that Lombok was rich in tin, assisted and the Sasak War broke out in 1894. The Balinese were eventually defeated, and a number of temples and palaces on Lombok were destroyed. Many of the final confrontations ended in puputan, the mass suicides of Balinese palace nobles, their families and followers.

With the defeat of the Balinese, the Sasak leaders believed they had the right to rule. Instead, the Dutch took over the island, banishing the king and his family, and offering only minor government positions to Sasak and Balinese leaders. Colonialism intensified land use and taxation until the Japanese took control of the island in 1942. When the Japanese left in 1945, the Dutch returned briefly but were repelled by nationalist guerrillas. Lombok has remained independent ever since.

Religion in Lombok

There are two main groups among the Sasak: Wektu Lima and Wektu Telu. The Wektu Lima are orthodox Sunni Muslims, while the Wektu Telu are nominal Muslims who combine a belief in Allah and some Islamic observances with a mosaic of animism, ancestor worship, Hinduism and Buddhism. The Wektu Lima have adopted the Islamic identity of Muslims throughout Indonesia, while the Wektu Telu are generally uninterested in the world at large, focusing instead on their strong ties to ancestral lands.

Both Wektu Lima and Wektu Telu Muslims observe Islamic religious practices, especially fasting during the month of Ramadan. Other religions, particularly Hinduism and Buddhism, peacefully co-exist alongside the local Muslim population, and there are a variety of mosques, churches and temples to visit on the island.

Today, Lombok retains many traits and customs similar to those of Java and Bali, and the Sasak language has many words from Javanese and Balinese (although Bahasa Indonesia is widely spoken). However, Sasak culture is unique from that of Java and Bali, with many traditions and beliefs inherent only to Lombok.

WEST LOMBOK TOWNS

The west coast of Lombok is the most developed area of the island with small towns, relatively good roads, shops, restaurants and hotels, and the island’s only airport.

Senggigi is the main beach resort and is located approximately 20 minutes drive from Selaparang Airport. The west coast of Lombok faces Bali across the Lombok Strait and affords wonderful sunsets with the sacred volcano, Gunung Agung on Bali, silhouetted against the orange-tinted evening sky.

The west is also lush and green, with mountains inland and the wide Lombok Strait forming a series of picturesque bays and beaches along the western and northwestern coastline. West Lombok, being closest to Bali, has a long history of Hindu settlement. Traces of the old empires are still very much visible in its large Hindu population, and its many Balinese-style temples and ceremonies.

Ampenan

The three main cities in western Lombok  Ampenan, Mataram and Cakranegara meld together to create what is, for Lombok, an urban sprawl. Ampenan is the old port town and some Dutch colonial architecture is still visible in the buildings closer to the beach to the west. This area becomes a boisterous market at night, filled with warung and kaki lima (food carts) hawking cheap and tasty food.

Truding along by Cidomo the main from of transport in Lombok

There are occasional performances of the gandrung dance or the shadow puppet play, known as wayang Sasak, on special holidays. With its numerous shops, cheap hotels, dusty roads, plentiful cidomo (horse-drawn carts), gold and pearl shops, and its quaint Arab quarter, Ampenan is a colourful town to explore on foot.

Mataram

The city of Mataram is the main administrative centre for Lombok and Sumbawa (part of NTB province), and has government offices, banks, mosques, the main post office and Mataram University downtown.

Mataram’s Nusa Tenggara Barat Museum (Tues—Sun Sam—noon; admission charge; tel: 0370-632159) houses historical and cultural artefacts from Lombok and Sumbawa, and it occasionally hosts special exhibits. Displays cover ecology, history and culture.

Another interesting stop is the cultural centre, Taman Budaya (tel: 0370-622428) on Jalan Majapahit, where there are regular performances of traditional music and dance.

Restaurant Mataram

Indonesian

Dua M

Jalan Transisto 99, Mataram. Tel: 0370¬-622914 Open: daily L & D. $
A long time favourite among locals, Dua M serves traditional Sasak food. Try the spicy pelecing ayam— grilled chicken with a piquant red sauce, or the popular pelecing kangkung, ,using water spinach.

Middle Eastern

Ali Baba

Jalan Catur Warga 4, Mataram Tel: 0370-640800. Open: daily L & D. $
Small traditional Arab kebab house (the owner is Yemen). Dishes are eaten with unleavened Lebanese bread or kebuli,. traditional Arabian rice coked with herbs, spices and coconut milk. The shish kebab (beef or lamb) is an excellent main course dish.

Cakranegara and Bertais

The daily market at Bertais east of Cakranegara

Just to the east of Mataram town is Cakranegara, Lombok’s main shopping area. It is also home to many Chinese and Balinese, who make up over 50 percent of the town’s population. Many of Lombok’s weaving and basketry industries are located near Cakranegara. Turn left at the main traffic lights and look for the market on the right near the bridge. The baskets made here are sold in Bali at many times what you pay in Lombok.

Further east, near the bus terminal, Bertais, the next large town east of Cakra. Also sometimes called Sweta, it has a huge market every day with all kinds of goods on sale from foodstuffs to clothing, erotic birds, handicrafts and more.

Restauran Cakranegara

Chinese

Seafood Nikmat

Jalan Panca Usaha 1, Cakranegara.Tel: 0370- 634330. Open: daily L & D. $$
Many varieties of fresh fish, including lobsters, prawns and crabs, Most the seafood is kept in re tanks and fished out lerally) when you order. Seafood can be cooked to my style you wish, either Indonesian or Cantonese (XO sauce, sweet and sour, black pepper, etc).

Pura Meru

Balinese inspired Pura Meru

There are several important sights in Cakranegara, foremost of which is Pura Meru (daily 8am – 5pm ; donation) at Jalan Selaparang. Built in 1720 by Balinese price Anak Agung Made Karang, this is the largest temple on Lombok. Its three main meru (pagoda) represent the Hindu trinity Shiva (Siwa in Bahasa Indonesia), Vishnu (Wisnu) and Brahma.

This is the most important temple for the Balinese here, and its annual Pujawali festival, held over five days during the September or October full moon, is the biggest Balinese-Hindu event on Lombok. The outer courtyard hall has drums that call the devout to ceremonies and festivals. Two buildings with raised offering platforms are found in the central courtyard, while the interior enclosure has 33 shrines and the three multi-tiered meru.

Pura Mayura

The water gardens of Pura Mayura

Just across the street from Pura Meru stands Pura Mayura (daily 8am-5pm; donation), built in 1744 as the court temple of the last Balinese kingdom in Lombok. Part of the Mayura Water Palace, a large artificial lake here holds an open hall or bale kambang (floating pavilion), used as a meeting and relaxing place. Today, the palace gardens are a playground for children and grazing livestock. The temple sits behind the water gardens.

Banyumulek and Gunung Pengsong

About 7 km (4 miles) south of Cakranegara is Banyumulek village, a major centre for the production of the distinctive terracotta pottery that Lombok is so famous for. Workshops are strewn around the village and you can see how the pots are made as well as make purchases here.

Just 3 km (2 miles) west of Pengsong, where a holy shrine (daily 8am-5pm; donation) sits on a hilltop and has lovely vistas of rice fields, the coast and Gunung Rinjani. Populated by monkeys, this is the hill the Balinese aimed for in the mythical account of their initial arrival in west Lombok.

Narmada

Continuing some 10 km (6 miles) east of Cakranegara is Narmada. The structures and pool at Taman Narmada (daily 7am-6pm; donation) were reportedly built in 1805as a replica of Gunung Rinjani and Danau Segara Anak, the crater lake within Gunung Rinjani’s caldera. When the ruling king Anak Agung Ngurah Gede.

view of the pool at Taman Narmada

Karangasem, became too old make the long and mandatory trek to Segara Anak, he built Taman Narmada comprising terraced gardens, pools, a large lake and a temple called Pura Kalasa as  a replica where he could perform his annual rituals. The annual pilgrimage and offering at Segara Anak, where pilgrims throw gold pieces into the lake as offerings, still exists to this day, and the festival at Taman Narmada coincides with this pilgrimage during the full moon  of either October or November.

Gendang Belek Dance on Sengingi Beach

The gardens at Pura Narmada a splendid, and on special occasions performances of gandrung, gendang belek and other traditional dances are held here. The two swimming pools at Narmada where you can splash around (separate admission charg are very popular with local kids.

Pura Lingsar

Northwest of Narmada is Pura Lingsar (daily 8am-5pm; dontion), with two shrines, one Hindu and the other for Wektu Telu followers. This is the temple where people of various religions Hindus, Buddhists, Christians and orthodox Muslims come together to pray for prosperity, rain, fertility and health. The temple is associated with irrigation and rice, and the annual festival here features a ritualised mock battle called the Perang Topat.

Temple Structures at Pura Lingsar

Built around 1714, Pura Lingsar was originally based on the prevailing animist beliefs of the time, and some of the original animist statues still remain today. While the main courtyard symbolically unites the deities of Bali and Lombok, the second courtyard, called Kemaliq, contains sacred pools and unique altars of rocks reminiscent of ancient megalithic worship. These rocks, brought down from the top of Gunung Rinjani and dressed in ceremonial cloths, are believed to contain the spirits of the ancestors of the land.

Pura Lingsar has a spring-fed pool which contains large freshwater holy eels. Visitors are welcome to accompany a temple priest who will feed the eels hard-boiled eggs, purchased at nearby stands.

Pura Suranadi

Pura Suranadi

Located a few kilometres northeast of Narmada in Suranadi is Pura Suranadi (daily 8am-5pm; donation), a complex of three temples. Pura Suranadi is among the oldest and holiest of the Balinese temples in Lombok, founded by the 16th-century Javanese high priest, Danghyang Nirartha. Underground streams bubble up into restored baths used for ritual bathing; this is also where locals obtain the holy water for cremation ceremonies. Huge sacred eels live in the pools and streams here and can sometimes be lured out with an offering of kardboiled eggs (purchased from a nearby stall).The eels are considered holy (to see a sacred eel is deemed lucky) and it is taboo to eat them or to contaminate the waters.

Beyond Suranadi, on the main road before the temple, is Hutan Wisata Suranadi (daily 8am-5pm; admission charge). Stroll through this small botanical forest with labelled specimens and observe birds, monkeys and butterflies.

WEST COAST

The main road starts at Ampenan and winds its way up the entire west coast, around the north of the island and down the east coast, making orientation and travelling around easy. Heading north from Ampenan is Pura Segara, a Balinese sea temple. The Chinese cemetery on the main road has interesting sea-facing graves painted in bright colours with Chinese decorations.

Batu Layar, on the hill a few kilometres before Senggigi, has an important ancestral grave (makam) where Muslims come to picnic and to pray for health and success. There are many such makam all over Lombok (the graves of key religious leaders generally become shrines).

Nearby Pura Batu Bolong (daily 8am-5pm; donation) is an interesting Hindu temple on a cliff facing Bali across the Lombok Strait. Built on a large rock outcrop with a hole at the base, from which the temple takes its name, it is said that virgins were once sacrificed to the sea from the seat-like rock at the outermost point. Colourful Hindu ceremonies are held here every month at the dark and full moons, and also at Hindu festival times. This is a great place to watch the sunset, with fantastic vistas across to Gunung Agung on Bali.

Senggigi

About 10 km (6 miles) north of Ampenan is Senggigi 0, the main tourist centre on Lombok. Nowhere near as large or as busy as its Bali counterparts, Senggigi is a great base for exploring the rest of the island. The pace here is laidback, with activities centred around the beaches and daytrips to places of interest within a few hours drive.

Sengiggi Beach

Senggigi beach is the large bay that forms the centre of Senggigi, with the main road running parallel and slightly inland, and large resorts occupying the space between. The beach provides picturesque views of Bali’s Gunung Agung to the west and stunning sunsets in the evening. Just off the spit of land at the south end of Senggigi beach is Senggigi Point, a good spot for snorkelling and, in the right conditions, some decent surf breaks. The main road is lined NA small shops, tour agencies, resta-rants, bars and low-key nightclutts. There are also supermarkets, moneychangers, a post office and all the usual tourist facilities. Senggigi is a’ popular place to stay, with a gold range of deluxe hotels and resorts. well as budget accommodation.

North of Senggigi

Tourism development runs north along the coastal road for about 10 km (6 miles), with many hotels restaurants along the beautiful beaches that line the entire  west coast. About 2 km (1 mile) north Kerandangan, with a popular beach nearby and some nice hotels slightly out of town in a pretty valley.

Further north, Mangsit developed as an accommodation  alternative to Senggigi, with boutique-style hotels positioned along the breathtaking bays of this sectior of coast. Further north again is Lendang Luar, with two hotels perched on the long stretch of pristine beach here.

Deserted white sand beaches flanked by coconut groves  and untouched by development continue all the way north along the coastal road. Malimbu and Nipah are two pretty bays good for snorkelling Teluk Nara and Teluk Kodek are on a large bay about 25 km (15½miles) north of Senggigi. All the main dive operators have boats here to transfer guests to the Gili Island, as an alternative nearby Bangsal Harbour, the jump-off point.

Restaurant Senggigi and Mangsit

Asian

Bumbu

Jalan Raya Senggigi. Tel: 0370-692236. Open: daily L & D. $$
Serves a mix of Asian cuisines but the Thai menu is the best. Lip-smacking fish cakes and tom kha gai (chicken soup in coconut milk) and the array of curries: red, green, yellow and massaman, with a choice of chicken, beef, seafood or vegetable.

Quail

Ounci Pool Villas & Spa, Mangsit. Tel: 0370-693800. Open: daily B, L & D. $$$ www.quncivillas.com
The main restaurant at this new extension of the Qunci resort specialises in Asian cuisine. There is everything from Indian samosas to Thai soups, noodles dishes and curries. A variety of fresh seafood and Lombok’s famous fried chicken called ayam taliwang also feature on the menu.

International and Indonesian

Asmara Restaurant

Jalan Raya Senggigi, Senggigi. Tel: 0370-693619. Open: daily B, L & D. $$ www.asmara-group.com
This is one of Senggig ‘s best restaurants, with fresh, tasty and innova¬tive food. German-owned, it has a good range of international dishes, fresh seafood and pastas, and arguably the best steaks in town. The menu also includes local Sasak-style food and a good selection of vegetarian dishes. Well-stocked library, bar area and billiards table for adults, and a playground and wading pool out in the back for the children.

De Quake

Art Market, Senggigi. Tel: 0370-693694. Open: daily L & D. $$. www.dequake.com
Relaxing location overlooking the beach; the bar is downstairs, and the restaurant upstairs. Serves a delicious variety of Asian and international dishes.

Square

Jalan Raya Senggigi. Tel: 0370-644888. Open: daily L & D. $$$. www.squarelombok.com
Lombok’s classiest inde¬pendent restaurant. Three separate areas offer both standard Indonesian Chinese and an excep¬tional international menu by chef  Wayan Budiana (formerly from Mozaic, Bali). Inventive fare like scallops in a spicy mustard balsamic sauce, pan-seared foie gras with sweet and sour carambolla, and king prawn risotto with garlic butter.

Sunset Beach Restaurant

Puri Mas Boutique Resort & Spa, Mangsit. Tel: 0370- 693831. Open: daily B, L & D. $$$. www.purimas-lombok.com Overlooks the palm-fringed Mangsit Beach. The menu specialises in fresh seafood and the traditional Indonesian “Rijstaffel” assortment of meat, fish, and vegetable dishes accompanied by rice and spicy sauces. There is also a good selection of international dishes. Delicious desserts include a good apple crumble.

Taman

Jalan Raya Senggigi.Tel: 0370-693842. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
Right in the centre of town, this popular two-storey restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating. Classic jazz tunes set the atmosphere. Large menu features international dishes, a good selection of fish and seafood, and some authentic Indian curries.

Lombok

Lombok charms with its unspoilt natural beauty of pristine white sand beaches, forests and mountain as well as its largely untouched culture. Tourism impacts lightly on its traditional lifestyle.

Lying to the east of Bali and accessible by a 25-minute flight from that more well known island, Lombok is a haven for those seeking the unspoilt beauty of the old Bali. Indeed many people refer to Lombok as “Bali 20 years ago”, which isn’t an apt description when you consider the landscapes and cultures that are unique to Lombok.

At roughly 5,300 sq km (2,380 sq miles), Lombok is slightly smaller than Bali, and has a wide range of attractions and activities to suit all travellers. The main tourism areas are in Senggigi on the west coast, the Gili islands off the northwest coast, and Kuta on the island’s south coast.

The beaches surrounding Lombok are pristine, with clean waters bordered by long stretches of sand, and usually fringed with coconut palms. The west of the island is especially green and lush, with a series of beautiful bays skirting the entire coastline and the lovely Gili islands within easy reach. The southern coast is even more stunning, with long stretches of deserted beaches, cliffs and bays facing a vast ocean which provides some of the best surfing in Indonesia. Large parts of the island are still heavily forested and embellished with waterfalls, rivers, hills and mountains which provide myriad opportunities for exploration. Dominating north Lombok is a mountain range of 13 peaks, crowned by the magnificent volcano, Gunung Rinjani. To the south, agriculture is the mainstay. Many fields are still tilled using water buffalo and antiquated equipment, and the villages there are timeless.

For those seeking authentic cultural experiences, the ancient traditions of the local Sasak people, largely undisturbed by outside influences, are endlessly fascinating. The Sasak still live in traditional villages, and farm, fish and produce traditional handicrafts. Colourful ceremonies and traditional dance and music are an authentic part of local life and not staged for tourists. Lombok pottery, made by hand and fired in simple wood kilns, is already famous and exported all over the world while old techniques of weaving, thatching and wood-working are still handed down through the generations.

Lombok doesn’t have the spit and polish of Bali, but it does have the stunning beaches and a tropical paradise island atmosphere that many seek
when they envisage Bali.

Tabanan Region

Tabanan, synonymous with rice, has vast expanses of terraced rice fields. But there are also historically important towns that are centres for music, dance and religion, and the mountain sanctuary of Pura Luhur Batukau, an ancestral temple still maintained by descendants of Bali’s royalty.

The fertile plains of the Tabanan region were once home to the powerful Mengwi kingdom, which emerged around 1700 after the fall of Gelgel. At one time, it controlled Bukit Badung in the south and areas as far away as east Java. Mengwi rule ended in 1891 when it was defeated by its neighbours, and its realm divided between Tabanan and Badung. Unlike the kings of Gianyar, Bangli and Karangasem to the east, the raja of Tabanan had no agreement with the Dutch. In 1906, the Dutch took control of his land, which was later distributed among the villages in the area. Rice was the choice of crop, and Tabanan today is known as the Rice Basket of Bali.

Despite being deprived of politizal power by the Dutch, Tabanan’s royalty remained leaders among their people. Palaces continued to serve as centres for the arts, and royal families retained their role of presiding over temple ceremonies. In the rests near Gunung Batuwhichies the remote mountain sanctuary of Pura Luhur Batukau, a royal temple where thousands journey to pay homage.

The central mountains of northern Tabanan rise steeply through some of the more isolated parts of the island, where deer and wild boars roam dense forests. The region’s southwest coast still remains fairly underveloped, with rough waves pouding quiet stretches of blacksand beaches. The famouse Pura Tanah Lot sits on a rocky islet off the coas of Tabanan, but is more easily accessed from tourist centres in South Bali.

Tabanan

statue of Mario at the Gedong Mario Theatre

The town of Tabanan is the region’s administrative capital and a bustling place with many businesses but a few tourist attractions. Near the centre of the city is Gedong Mario Theatre which is used for performances of music and dance. The building was built in 1974 to honour the region’s late, great male dancer I Ketut Marya, better known simply as Mario. Born at the end of the 19th century, Mario was already dancing at the age of six. During the early 1920s, he developed and perfected the spectacular solo dances of kebyar duduk and kebyar trompong, which began in north Bali during the 1910′s. Mario’s grace and movement enraptured European audiences who saw him dance on a  tour of Europe during the 1930s.

Museum Subak

At the eastern end of Tabanan town the Museum Subak (Mon—Sat 30am-5pm, Fri 7.30am— 1pm; admission charge; tel: 0361-810 315), dedicated to the cultivation of rice,  the mainstay of Tabanan’s economy. Although rice is such an important part of Balinese life, visitors rarely come to see the museum’s well documented display of agricultural tools that trace the history and process of rice from paddy field to kitchen. Ask to see adjacent traditional Balinese house with a lumbug (rice storehouse).

Scenic drive to Pupuan

Armed with information about rice growing in Tabanan, head west along the curving road wending its way to Antosari. From here and at vantage points north at villages like Belimbing and Sanda are spectacular rice terraces carved from hillsides on either side of the road as far as the eye can see. Continuing north leads to Pujungan where a track on the right leads to a scenic waterfall. From this point onwards clove and coffee plantations are interspersed with rice fields until the road reaches Pupuan.

From Pupuan, there are two options. Heading north for 12 km (7½ miles) will lead to Mayong and all the way to the coast at Seririt. Continuing south, the twisting road descends via Tista, Manggissari and Asanduren villages to Pekutatan in west Bali.

Krambitan

Some 3 km (2 miles) southwest of Tabanan town is Krambitan, where a branch of the Tabanan royal family owns the atmospheric 17th century Puri Anyar (New Palace) and Puri Agung (Great Palace), both with beautiful architecture and ambience of the past. The latter, where Tabanan royalty still live today, doubles up as a guesthouse and restaurant (tel: 0361-812668). Krambitan village has a unique style of traditional wayang (puppet figure) painting that depicts episodes from epics, myths and romantic tales. The men also maintain large tektekan ensembles, playing giant wooden cattle bells and rhythmically striking bamboo tubes to create exciting music.

Pejaten

Southeast of Krambitan, a road zigzags through rice fields to the village of Pejaten, where traditional pottery is a home industry. Roof tiles, decorative wall plaques, whimsical figures and tableware made from terracotta are often glazed and painted with colourful accents. Stop by Tanteri’s Ceramic (daily 8am-4.30pm,tel: 0361-264921;www.tanteri-ceramic.com) to see a good selection of products. The range of vases, bowls, teapots, soap and candle holders in a greenish glaze are embellished with frogs, dragonflies and leaves.

Pura Sada

Southeast of Tabanan, the main road leads 10 km (6 miles) to KapaI (Boat), where the roadsides are lined with prefabricated temple shrines. guardian statues, planter pots and other garden paraphernalia. Much more important is Pura Sada (daily daylight hours; donation), an ancestral shrine honouring the deified spirit of Ratu Sakti Jayengrat (Powerful World Conquering Lord), whose identity still remains uncertain.

detail of Boma image at Pura Sada

The original foundations may date to the 12th century, but the  temple was rebuilt by one of the early kings of Mengwi during the 17th century and is the oldest of the kingdom’s state shrines. It was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1917 but was restored in 1949. A large brick and stone prasada (tower) with 11 tiers dominates the inner courtyard giving the temple its name.

Pura Taman Ayun

Travel north 4 km (2½ miles) to Mengwi, turning right at the crossroads to Pura Taman Ayun (daily daylight hours; admission charge), built in the 18th century by a king of Mengwi as a royal family temple. The surrounding moat gives the impression of a garden sanctuary with soaring meru (pagodas) resembling the masts of a majestic ship in the middle of a pond. Only worshippers are allowed inside, so admire this architectural masterpiece from behind the low temple walls.

Pura Taman Ayun

This temple is a place to worship the gods of other sacred sites,  with individual shrines to the mountain deities of Batukau, Agung and Batur, as well as to the resident of Pura Sada temple. Important kings of Mengwi are also venerated here. Note the small and beautifully carved doors of the shrines here.

Sangeh

From Pura Taman Ayun, travel east to Latu and then head north uphill to Blahkiuh and the sacred “monkey forest” at Sangeh. According to the Indian Ramayana epic, the monkey general Hanoman broke off a Himalayan mountain peak laden with magical plants to revive the fallen heroes of Rama’s forces. When this feat was accomplished, Hanoman returned the peak but part of it fell to earth at Sangeh along with some of his monkey soldiers. Today, the temple is a hideout for a band of mischievous monkeys, so take the same precautions as you would at Ubud’s Monkey Forest. A unique duster of towering nutmeg trees found nowhere else on the island grows here. The forest is sacred and no one is permitted to chop any tree or harm its monkeys.

In the heart of the nutmeg forest lies Pura Bukit Sari, a mosscovered 17th-century holy site originally built as a meditation temple and then converted to an agricultural temple. In the central courtyard, a large statue of the mythological garuda bird, an old carving of uncertain date, symbolises freedom from suffering.

Pura Alas Kedaton

Alternatively, to get to a more accesible “monkey forest”, head north out of Mengwi for some 5 km (3 miles) and turn left at the junction to Belayu, a small village where beautiful hand-woven songket (brocade) cloths are made. Continue past Belayu to Pura Alas Kedaton (daily daylight hours; admission charge), which has quite a nice setting. Besides the usual souvenir stalls, many fruit bats and mischievous monkeys inhabit the surrounding trees. Again, take heed of the monkeys here.

Margarana Memorial

the Magarana Memorial

Return to the crossroads at Belayu, turn left uphill and travel 6 km (4 miles) to Marga, the site of the important Margarana Memorial (daily 9am-5pm; admission charge). In 1946, the commander of Indonesian nationalist troops in Bali, Lt Col I Gusti Ngurah Rai, and his company of 94 guerrilla fighters were surrounded and outnumbered by Dutch forces in Marga. As an added measure, the Dutch also bombarded them from the air. Ngurah Rai and his men refused to surrender. Instead, they attacked the Dutch positions and died to the last man in a suicidal assault reminiscent of the royal puputan (“finishing off’) in Badung carried out 40 years earlier, also in defiance of the Dutch.

The Margarana Memorial was built to honour these valiant soldiers. It is a five-sided pillar 17 metres (55 ft) tall and inscribed with a coura¬geous letter written by Ngurah Rai, stating his refusal to surrender until freedom was won. Nearby are 94 stone markers, each bearing the name and home village of a fallen hero. The anniversary of the mas¬sacre is remembered in a solemn ceremony every 20 November. Bali’s airport and a university in Denpasar are named in honour of Ngurah Rai.

Bali Butterfly Park

From Marga, return to the main road and go west to Tunjuk, then head downhill to Wanasari. Just down the main road is the Bali Butterfly Park (daily 8am-5pm; act sion charge; tel: 0361-81428: Around 15 species of butterflies flutter in an enclosed area; they are more active on warm, dry days.

Yeh Panas

Yeh Panas

Head north uphill for another 9 km (6 miles) to get to Penatahan, where hot water surges from a riverbank at Yeh Panas. The Balinese believe that such an unusual natural ph enomenon is inhabited by spirits. so small temple was built at the site During World War II, occupying Japanese forces made the first additions to the place when they tried to create a Japanese-style outdoor bathing place here. The hot springs are now a part of the Yeh Panas Springs Resort (daily 8am-6pm tel: 0361-262356 or 484052 reservation office), but non-guests can take a relaxing soak in its waters for a fee.

Pura Luhur Batukau

Continue north up the road 10 km (6 miles) via Wongayagede to one of Bali’s most venerated temples, the Pura Luhur Batukau (daily daylight hours; admission charge), Temple of the Stone Coconut Shell, on the slopes of Gunung Batukau. The modest structures are devoid of ornate carving and gilding, blending in well with the surrounding forests. Although renovations in 1991 took something away from the temple’s original mystique, it is still a quiet and beautiful place for reflection.

Pura Luhur Batukau

The main temple in the complex is dedicated to the god of Gunung Batukau, the second highest mountain on the island at 2,278 metres (7,475 ft). It’s s6 important that every temple in southwest Bali has a shrine dedicated to this exalted deity. As the ancestral temple of the royal families of Mengwi and Tabanan, there are also shrines for their deified ancestors. In the inner courtyard, the seven-tiered meru (pagoda) is dedicated to the ruler who established the Mengwi kingdom around the end of the 17th century; a three-tiered one is for the 18th-century founder of Tabanan. Descendants of both dynas¬ties still maintain the temple today.

Jatiluwih

Back down the road 3 km (2 miles) in Wongayagede is a T-junction. Turn left and follow the twisting road uphill to the mountain village of Jatiluwih (Extraordinary). Perched on a vantage point, the area deserves its name for the amazing views of rice terraces that stretch all the way to southern Bali. Padi Bali (indigenous Balinese rice) with long graceful stalks is grown here, and during harvest time women bear heavy bundles of the ripe yellow grains home on their heads while men carry yet more on each end of bamboo shoulder poles.

Apuan and Pacung

The road twists and turns further east to Apuan. This small mountain village is the spiritual home of sacred Barong masks from all over Tabanan. From a T-junction in Apuan head 5 km (3 miles) uphill where the road joins the main route at Pacung. Stop to admire the views of beautiful rice terraces from this vantage point. Taking the road north leads to the
Bedugul area.

west bali

Remote west Bali sees few visitors because attractions are so widespread. Those who make the trek west will be amply rewarded with vineyards heavy with bunches of grapes, dramatic windswept coastal temples, isolated Christian communities, some of Bali’s best diving and a massive national park.

Travellers fed up with the congested roads of southern Bali will greet the seemingly empty roads of western Bali with euphoria. Not only are there fewer vehicles, but also fewer people here. A national park, a refuge for endangered wildlife, takes up much of this part of the island, while black sand beaches mostly unprotected by offshore reefs along the southwest coast are usually empty except for diehard surfers. This is the region called Jembrana, Bali’s ‘wild west” that once was home to the island’s earliest prehistoric inhabitants. Hindu high priests and aristocrats from Java first stepped foot on this part of Bali to spread the faith or lay claim to the island. Over the centuries, migrants from more populated areas in Bali, Java, Madura, Sulawesi and even distant Malaysia established communities here. This ethnically, culturally and geographically diverse area offers surprises to visitors who rake the effort to explore this region.

Celukan Bawang

Located 16 km (10 miles) west of Sereririt, the small and sheltered harbour of Celukan Bawang (Onion Cove ) has replaced Singaraja as the main port for the north coast. Occasionally, a distinctive pinisi (wooden sailing ship) of the Bugis people from south Sulawesi drops anchor here.

West to Pulaki

Continuing west, the land takes on a drier texture and the agricultural diversity becomes apparent. All along here past Pantai Gondol to Pulaki and further west, grapes are cultivated, both for eating and making wine. Vines loaded with bunches of dark purple fruit hang from raised trellises during the dry season from June to September. Near Grokgak  are the vineyards of Hatten Wines (tel: 0361-286298; www.hattenwines.com), which culti
vate both the Alphonse-Lavallee red and the Belgia white varieties. The processing however takes place at its winery in Sanur. Although generally not open to the public, you can visit both the Hatten vineyards in north Bali and the winery in the south as part of a tour organised by Bali Discovery (tel: 0361-286283; www.balidiscovery.com), with wine tastings and lunch included.

Pulaki

Another 5 km (3 miles) along the road just past Banyupoh village in Pulaki is an interesting pair of temples originating from an incident in the 16th century, when the Javanese high priest Danghyang Nirartha came here to escape from the rise of Islam in Java. One day Nirartha’s youngest daughter became lost in the forest and was violated by some men from a local village. When the priest found her nearly dead, he purified and transformed her into a goddess called Dewi Melanting. Her temple set against forested hill  is called Pura Melanting (daily d light hours; donation).

Nirartha cursed those responsible for the crime to become invisible, and ordered these wong gamang to serve his wife whom he deified at Pura Pulaki (daily daylight hours; do nation), about 2 km (1 mile) to the west. The temple, rebuilt in the 1980s, hugs a ledge cut out of the mountainside that overlooks the ocean and is guarded by a band of frisky monkeys. According to the villagers, the invisible wong gamang are said to still roam the island, causing dogs to howl, for no apparent reason.

Part of the Pura Pulaki complex is Pura Pabean (daily daylight hours; donation), just opposite and strikingly perched on a hill overlooking the coast. Unusually blending both Chinese and Balinese design elements, this is where fishermen come to pray for safe passage.

Pemuteran

Further 3 km (2 miles) west of Pulaki is Pemuteran, with its quiet beaches and great diving and snorkelling at coral reefs offshore. There are several cottage-style hotels here that can arrange hikes into the West Bali National Park and dive trips to nearby Pulau Menjangan. More low key than Lovina beach to the east, Pemuteran sees many repeat visitiors who enjoy its relaxed and understated air. Right in front of the Taman Sari Cottages, an experimental reef regrowth pro-gramme is underway, using low-voltage current to encourage the ffowth of coral around artificial reef frames. So far the results have been fruitful as evidenced by the number of snorkellers in Pemuteran Bay.

Restaurant at Pemuteran

Most  eating places in this are within hotels.

Dewi Ramona

Matahari Beach Resort. 3362-92312. Open: 7am-10.30pm. $$$
www. matahari-beach-resort.com
A perfect blend of Asian Western cuisines is .ed at this upmarket hotel restaurant. Highlight
include the unique varieties of spring rolls the Balinese special, fish cooked in banana leaf.

Taman Selini

Taman Selini Resort. Tel: 0362-94746. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
www.tamanselini.com
Delightful beachside restaurant with surpris¬ingly good Greek dishes in addition to the usual local and international fare. The mezze plate, moussaka and prawn saghanaki are delicious..

Banyuwedang

Another 10 km (6 miles) west at a bend in the road is Banyuwedang  (Hot Water), which has natural hot springs with medicinal properties that are said to heal skin diseases. The springs are a little grubby so a better option is the nearby Mimpi Resort where for a small fee, visitors can take a dip in the small pool that pumps in mineral water from the springs at Banyuwedang.

Pulau Menjangan

Next along the road is Labuhan Lalang, the jump-off point for Pulau Menjangan. It has a visitors’ centre (daily 8am-3pm) and car park with simple food stalls. Snorkelling equipment can be rented here for boat trips to the tiny and uninhabited Pulau Menjangan (Deer Island). Dive trips are better arranged from Pemuteran. A part of the West Bali National Park and located less than 10 km (6 miles) offshore, it has some of Bali’s best diving sites, with diverse marine life, good visibility and pristine coral reefs extending deep into the ocean floor. The legendary Javanese high priest Empu Kuturan is said to have arrived here during the 10th century, where a deer led him around Bali. The island’s name is a misnomer now as the rare Java deer are rarely spotted, but it is a protected sanctuary for the endangered jalak putih (white Bali starling).

Makam Jayaprana

Just 1 km (½ mile) beyond Labuhan Lalang and located high up a steep hillside with lovely views is Makam Jayaprana, the gravesite of the 17th-century local folk hero called Jayaprana. The handsome orphan Jayaprana had wed the beautiful Layonsari, but the lord of Kalianget near Banjar who raised him up was jealous and desired her. He hatched up a ruse to lure Jayaprana to a distant bay and had him murdered. In despair, Layonsari committed suicide rather than submit to the treacherous lord, and was reunited with Jayaprana in heaven. The shrine has a glass case which contains images of the ill-fated couple. Women pray here for divine assistance in matters of love.

Gilimanuk

At a T-junction in the main road in Cekik, 14 km (9 miles) from Labuhan Lalang, turn to the right to Gilimanuk. This nondescript town on a small peninsula is marked by a distinctive arch towering above the road, depicting four serpentswith their tails entwined. Beyond the commercial stretch is a modern terminal for ferries that shuttle passengers, buses and cars (operating 24 hours daily) between Bali and Java, a distance of only 3 km (2 miles) and covered in 30 minutes.

The only attraction worth seeing in Gilimanuk is Museum Situs Purbakala (Museum of Prehistoric Man), which displays the excavated prehistoric remains from a small settlement said to be 4,000 years old (Mon—Fri 8am-3pm; donation). hi fact some of Bali’s earliest evidence of human life have been found in this area, with artefacts like stone adzes and pottery fragments dating back to 1000 BC. Given the narrow strait, it must have been easy enough for humans from East Java to make the crossing to Bali. In fact, geologists maintain that Java and Bali were once part of the same land mass.

West Bali National Park

Cekik is also the location for the headquarters of Taman Nasional Bali Barat 0 or West Bali National Park (Mon—Thur 7.30am-3.30pm, Fri 7.30am—11am, Sat 7.30am—1pm; tel: 0365-61060). Printed information is limited, but the staff are quite helpful. Obtain the necessary permits for hiking in the park here or at the visitor centre in Labuhan Lalang; an official guide is compulsory as visitors are not allowed to trek on their own. Established in 1984, the -60 sq km (300 sq miles) of forested mountains, coasts and offshore reefs are the last remaining pristine areas on the island. The gentle slopes of Gunung Prapat Agung at 375 metres (1,230 ft) anchors the western tip of Bali and the national park. A trail of 24 km (15 miles) goes partway around the foot of the mountain.

The park is the home of civet cats, several species of deer, birds and monkeys, and only a few dozen rare Java buffalo. The last sighting of a Bali tiger was in 1937, when it was shot dead by a Dutch official. The area is also a refuge for the endangered jalak putih, the small
hite Bali starling or Rothschild’s mynah (Leucopsar rothschildi) with brilliant blue patches around its eyes and black-tipped wings. Poaching has left less than a dozen of these birds in the wild, although zoos around the world maintain several thousand specimens.

Belimbingsari and Palasari

From Cekik, travel 15 km (9 miles) Melaya and turn inland to the village Belimbingsari. Home to Balli’s largest Protestant community, its impressive church has distinctly
Balinese design elements and a kulkul (warning drum) instead of a bell signalling the start of service. Sunday services are at 9am (call tel: 365-42192 to check).

A short drive away south is the 1,500 strong Catholic community in Palasari. Like Belimbingsari, the early converts settled in remote west Bali by choice as they were shunned by the Hindu Balinese. The cathedral, adorned with Balinese touches like meru temple roofs, is a stunning piece of architecture in the middle of literally nowhere. The original structure dates back to 1958, with the present church built in 1991. Friday mass at 5.30pm and Sunday mass at 6.30am are good times to visit (tel: 0365-42201) but call  ahead to check first.

Negara and Loloan Timur

Part of the road southeast follows the coast, before turning inland at Candikesuma to the next port of call at Negara 0. There is little tourist development along this 30-km (19-miles) road punctuated by orchards and coconut trees and the occasional mosque (Jembrana region has a large Muslim migrant population from Java and elsewhere). There is nothing of much interest in Negara even though it may be Jembrana’s largest town and the main administrative centre.

Just 1 km (½ mile) south of Negara is Loloan Timur, a small village populated by Muslim Bugis people from south Sulawesi who settled here many generations ago. A number of their wooden homes retain the unique traditional Buginese style and are elevated on posts. The Jembrana region’s other claims to fame are the renowned bull races  and the unique gamelan jegog; a music ensemble using only bamboo instruments, some of which are gigantic tubes 3 metres (10 ft) long and 15 cm (6 inches) in diameter. Some have likened the resonant sounds to roaring thunder; the music can be heard and even felt from quite a dis-tance. Gamelan jegog accompanies traditional dances like tart silat (self-defence dance) and newer ones like tari makepung (bullracing dance). Today, there are nearly 50 ensembles mostly located around the towns of Sangkar Agung, Mendoyo Dangintukad and Tegal Cangkring.

Restaurant at Negara

Very limited choice, mostly small warungs.

Wira Pada Restaurant

Jalan Ngurah Rai 107, Negara. Tel: 0365-42669. Open: Mon—Sat L & D.$
Serves Indonesian food, including tepungdishes (various meats coated in breadcrumbs and pan fried) and some Chinese-style food, like sweet and sour chicken or fish.

Medewi

Most eating places in this area are within hotels.  Medewi Beach Cottages Medewi. Tel: 0365-40029. Open: daily 7am-10.30pm. $$
Situated on a black sand beach, the pickings are slim at this beachside area popular with surfers. Selection of Indonesian and Western dishes, very ho hum but really no choice, unless starving is an option.

Pura Gede Perancak

From Loloan Timur, follow the road northeast to Dauhwaru, then turn right and continue zigzagging all the way to the coastal town of Yeh Kuning. From there, go west along the coast to the mouth of Perancak River, believed to be the place where 16th-century Javanese high priest Danghyang Nirartha first landed in Bali. While resting in the shade of an ancak (kind of banyan). a local ruler ordered him to pray in the temple there. After the priest did. it collapsed and was rebuilt by villagers as the small and simple Pura Gede Perancak (Great Temple of the Ancak Tree).

Pura Rambut Siwi

Head back to the main road and continue east. At Yeh Embang, a side road on the right leads towards a spectacular stretch of black sand beach where Pura Rambut Siwi (The Lock of Hair Temple) stands (daily daylight hours; donation s. Perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean, stop at one of several pavillions to the west of this temple and admire the panoramic views across rice fields and black sand beaches.

In the 16th century, the Javanese high priest Danghyang Nirartha is said to have stopped at the village and put an end to an epidemic that was devastating the population. Before moving on, he presented the people with a gift of his hair, thus explaining the name of the holy site. Nirartha’s hair and some of his personal belongings are enshrined within a menu (pagoda) in the inner courtyard of the main temple.

Medewi

Further east along the main road is Medewi, a rather undistinguished village but with a black sand pebble beach; the stretch on the other side of the river mouth is good for surfing. The waves can be rough and the undercurrent strong here, so  be careful when in the water. Beach-vendors serve food; otherwise .d to the restaurants at one of the dest hotels near the beach.

Bunut Bolong

Just beyond Medewi at Pekutatan, veer left at the Y-junction and begin ready climb up into the mountains. The narrow, twisting and paved road going just 10 km (6 milies) passes through rainforest and plantations of coffee, cocoa and cloves, and the mountainside-hugging village of Asanduren. Stop to have a look at Balinese village life nearly unaffected by the demands of tourism.

Heading north, the road passes right through the base of a gigantic bunut (a type of banyan) tree in Manggissari village. At one time, the road went around this grand old tree, but as it continued to grow larger the only choice was to create a tunnel through it. Cutting down the tree would have left its resident spirit without a place to stay. Called Bunut Bolong (Hole in the Bunut Tree), on the right side of the tree just before passing through is a small shrine with two tiger figures. This is where drivers sometimes stop to ask for permission to continue on their journey by making offerings to the spirit.

From here, the road continues past isolated mountain villages like Tista to Pupuan in Tabanan region. Stop here to admire the breathtaking rice terraces and panoramic views of southwest Bali before continuing either to north Bali or south to Tabanan proper.

North Bali

North Bali is almost a world unto itself in terms of its people, terrain and architecture. You can linger at the peaceful coastal resort of Lovina or head inland to the foot of lofty mountains where the cool highlands are speckled with waterfalls, serene lakes and temples, and coffee, clove and vanilla estates.

Geographically separated by a chain of towering volcanoes running from west to east across Bali, the northern part of the istand is not only physically different from the south but has also developed a distinctive character over time. For centuries, the coastal communities of the north participated in the trade that traversed the mlin Java Sea. The Dutch, too, conquered this part of Bali first in 1849, before moving south. All these have exposed the Balinese population to outside influences, making them much more cosmopolitan as a result.

Today, the highest educated Balinese are from the north coast, partly Joe to the early implementation of a Western-style educational system by Ilse Dutch. Modern Balinese literature also had its beginnings in the north. With a softer variety of sandstone available from local quarries, carvers have been able to create very intricate lone carvings for temples. As a result North Bali temple carvings are more tree-dimensional and exuberant than anywhere else in Bali. The countryside too appears rather golden due to lower rainfall. Orchards of citrus fruits, grapes, spices, vanilla, coffee and cocoa replace the familiar rice melds, although non-irrigated rice is widely grown and prized by most Balinese for its delicious flavour.

Tejakula

Travelling from east Bali along the main northeast coastal route, there is not much of interest till Tejakula. Its traditional musicians and dancers are very talented, and the village is home to Bali’s most complete wayang wong troupe with its dozens of colourful human, monkey and ogre masks for dance drama performances of the Ramayana epic.

In the middle of Tejakula are the quaint horse baths fed by a natural spring. In the past, horses making the long and hot journey along the north coast made a stop here to be washed in the cool water. The elaborate structure with sculpted arches is now a public bathing area with separate sections for males and females.

Pura Ponjok Batu

Pura Ponjok Batu viewed through a wooden door

Further west about 12 km (7 miles) along the coast is the dramatic Pura Ponjok Batu  (daily daylight hours; donation), perched on a scenic hillside overlooking the sea. Recently renovated, the temple marks the site where the 16th-cen¬tury Javanese high priest Danghyang Nirartha stopped to admire the view when he saw a boat in trouble. He revived the unconscious crew with the waters from a spring that magically appeared on the beach. They were able to continue travelling even though the boat had no sail and the mast was broken. Just below the temple, a replica of the boat is found on a small rock battered by waves.

Art Zoo

Painting af a young Balinese man at the Art Zoo

At Alas Sari another 3 km (2 miles) west of Pura Ponjok Batu is the funky Art Zoo (daily 9am-5pm: free; mobile tel: 085-2380 94072: www.symonbali.com), a fantasy homoerotic land created by American artist Symon. Stop by to see his life-size sculptures and colourful paintings of young Balinese men and other pop art themes. A similar set-up is found in Ubud if you don’t get this far. Be sure to climb up to the top of the pagoda-like tower for stunning views of the coastline and surrounding hills and then go into its base to see the Buddhist sanctuary filled with images and incense.

Air Sanih

Further 5 km (3 miles) west are the cool springs at Air Sanih , also known as Yeh Sanih (daily daylight hours; admission charge). The big spring-fed pool under spreading frangipani trees near the sea isn’t terribly inviting but many locals flock here especially around sunset to swim or bathe. Accommodation, mostly budget-range places, and restaurants are available nearby if you decide to spend the night.

Pura Meduwe Karang

The tiny and sweet strawberries for sale at Candi Kuning market

Just before the main road north from Gunung Batur meets the coastal road  in Kubutambahan is a small side road towards the sea that leads to the temple of Pura Meduwe Karang (daily daylight hours; donation). It filled with the elaborate carvings and decorations that are so typical of northern-style temple architecture, often depicting scenes which are humorous, highly animated and even erotic in character. Built in 1890, it has many fertility motifs including portrayals of various erotic . Other carvings also show demons and humans, including that of Dutch artist W.O.J. Nieuwenkamp (1874-1950) riding a bicycle with flowery wheels. Look for it on the ocean-side wall of the main shrine in the temple’s inner courtyard. In the beginning of the 20th century, Nieuwenkamp travelled everywhere in Bali by bicycle, sketching scenes of what he saw. Pura Meduwe Karang literally means “Temple of the Owner of the Land”, and it honours the deity of the crops of dry agriculture. Just as subak temples ensure harvests on irrigated rice fields, this temple assures blessings for plants grown on unin-igated land, including fruits, coconut and coffee.

Jagaraga

Another 2 km (1 mile) east in Bungkulan, turn (left) uphill at the main T-junction and continue 4 km inland (2½ miles) to Jagaraga. This is the scene of the bloody 1849 battle between the Balinese and the Dutch, which killed most of the village’s population and ended several years of fighting between the two sides. Today, Jagaraja is more famous for its interesting Pura Dalem, the Temple of the Dead, (daily daylight hours; donation), where Siwa (Shiva), the Hindu god of destruction, presides. Highly animated bas-reliefs portray life before and after the Dutch arrival, like armed bandits holding up two smug Europeans riding in an antique Ford car, World War II airplanes engaged in an aerial battle with some plunging into the sea, and a Dutch steamer sending out a smoky SOS signal while being attacked by a sea monster. Even the widow-witch Rangda and the statue of a dazed mother buried under a pile of children are carved with a sense of humour.

Pura Beji

Pura Beji is built from sandstone unlike most other Balinese temples

Back along the main northern coastal road in Sangsit  is the amazing Pura Beji (daily daylight hours; donation) built of pink sandstone during the 15th century. At this subak (irrigation) temple dedicated to Dewi Sri, intricate carvings of naga (serpents) and symbols of water and fertility adorn the balustrades, with fantastic beasts, demonic guardians, jawless birds and fierce tigers peering out from the entangled flora. Rows of slender towers jut up from the temple terraces, forming a labyrinth of stone. To counterbalance the overpowering motifs, the temple courtyard is unusually spacious and planted with frangipani trees.

Singaraja

About 9 km (6 miles) east of Pura Beji Sangsit is Singaraja, Bali’s second largest town (after Denpasar) and the north’s main commercial centre. After the Dutch imposed direct colonial rule on the Buleleng region in 1882, Singaraja became the capital and chief port until 1953, when the administrative centre was moved to Denpasar it the south. But even before the Dutch showed up, Singaraja was an important shipping and trading centre. Today, Singaraja still has a bustling and cosmopolitan flavour. Its population of 200,000 comprises Balinese, Javanese, Arabs and Chinese.

In many respects, Singaraja is the intellectual centre of the north. Education has long been valued by northerners as a way to develop and modernise. Modern Balinese literature had its beginnings in the north, and the Indonesian nationalist movement was particularly strong here.  It’s not surprising therefore to find two major universities in Singaraja and a sizeable student population.

Singaraja’s old port was destroyed by rough waves during the early 1990s. Nearby is the Ling Gwan Kiong Chinese Buddhist Temple (daily daylight hours; donation), dating back to 1873 and filled with colourful murals of deities and mythological figures. Further up the waterfront is Yudha Mandala Tama Independence Monument, which commemorates Indonesia’s struggle against the Dutch from 1945 to 1949

Gedong Kirtya

On Jalan Veteran just two blocks east of the Singa Ambara Raja, a large statue of the winged lion-king that symbolises Singaraja, is the historical Gedong Kirtya library Mon—Thu 8am-4pm, Fri—Sat 8am—noon; admission charge; tel: 0362-22645). This repository of old books and Balinese manuscripts was established by the Dutch in 1928 partly to compensate for their bloody conquest of Bali. It has a fine collection of lontar, traditional books made from dried fan-palm leaves cut into strips, inscribed and preserved between two pieces of wood or bamboo. Some works are relatively lewer copies of older ones that have disintegrated due to humidity, fungus and insect damage. The lontar manuscripts cover literature, mythology, historical chronicles and religion. Some even have miniature drawings, which are masterpieces in the art of illustration. The library also has several royal edicts inscribed on thin sheets of bronze dating from the 10th century, among the earliest written documents in Bali.

West of Singaraja to Lovina

About 6 km (4 miles) west of Singaraja is the low-key beach resort area of Lovina. Stretching over 8 km (5 miles) of mainly ho hum black sand beaches, the name Lovina (Lovely Indonesia) was given by Panji Tisna, the last king of Buleleng and a convert to Christianity, to the string of fishing villages along the northern coast, with names like Kaliasem, Kalibukbuk, Anturan and Tukad Mungga. Like the Kuta area, the borders between the villages are invisible, with much of the activity centred on Kalibukbuk in the middle.

Caressed by gentle waves, Lovina is a decent area for watersports and related activities and much better suited for families because of the rather laid-back pace and lack of crowds. Accommodations range from simple homestays to mid-range resorts with restaurants and other facilities, mostly located on both sides of Jalan Raya Lovina.

Nearly every hotel, guide or fisherman in Lovina offers dolphin watching tours very early in the morning for a fee. This amounts to nothing more than dozens of noisy motorised canoes filled with tourists inhumanely chasing after the poor mammals as they surface for air, and some people take issue with this.

Diving and snorkelling are major activities in Lovina, although better options are found in the waters around Pulau Menjangan nearby.

Restouran at Lovina

Chinese

Warung Aria

Jalan Raya Lovina 18, Kalibukbuk, Lovina. Tel; 3362-41341. Open: L& D. $
Small warung (local stall) on main road, always busy. Serves simple (and cheap) Cantonese-style dishes like corn and crab soup. sweet and sour chicken or fish, honey chicken and a superlative fried rice studded shrimps.

International and Indonesian

Damai Restaurant

Jalan Damai, Lovina. Tel; 3362-41008. Open: L & D. $$$$
www.damai.com
Lovly upmarket resort a fine-dining restau¬rant offering exquisite
nouvelle and fusion Indonesian and Western cuisines, together with sweeping views. If money is no object, try the 5-course gourmet dinner. Also has excellent wines and desserts. Free shuttle service to Lovina hotels.

Kakatua

Kalibukbuk, Lovina. Tel; 0362-41344. Open: daily B, L & D. $-$$
Exellent seafood is served in a large open air pavilion. Have breakfast while being serenaded by cockatoos.

Kubu Lalang

Pantai Tukadmungga, Lovina. Tel: 0362-42207. Open: daily B, L & D. $$ www.kubu.balihotelguide.com .
Set right on the beach, this restaurant has a large menu consisting of Balinese, European, Arabic and Indian dishes, priced very rea¬sonably and accompa¬nied by pleasant service from the young staff. 

Kwizien

Jalan Raya Kaliasem, Lovina. Tel: 0362-42031. Open: daily L & D. $$
Restaurant with both an air-conditioned section and open terrace offering a menu of European and local dishes. The barbe¬cued chicken wings, steak Rocquefort, lamb medallions and pork spare ribs are all to be recommended. Ideal spot for special occasion dinners. Excellent wine list. 

Le Gong

Bali Paradise Hotel, Jalan Kartika, Kalibukbuk. Tel: 0362-41432. Open: daily B, L & D. $$$
This hotel restaurant is a gem of a place. Sit indoors if you want the air-conditioning; otherwise ask for an outside table overlooking the swimming pool and landscaped gardens. Lamb chops are a favourite as is the Steak Diane (fillet mignon with a sauce made of mustard, onion, mushrooms, cream and red wine.

Villa Agung

Villa Agung Bungalows, Jalan Singaraja, Lovina. Tel: 0362-41527. Open: daily B, L & D. $$ www.agungvilla.com Beachside bungalow restaurant with a menu of good international and Indonesian dishes.

International

Adirama

Adirama Hotel, Lovina. Tel: 0362-41759. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
Hotel restaurant right at the water’s edge. Serves everything from fish and chips to wiener schnitzel and Indonesian butter fried chicken. Also features a good selecion of Mexican dishes (tacos, enchilladas, quesadillas and crunchy taquitos).

Thai

Jasmine Kitchen

Gang Bina Ria, off Jalan Bina Ria, Kalibukbuk, Lovina. Tel: 0362-41565. Open: daily L & D. $$
Small eatery serving Thai cuisine. Vegetarian spring rolls, served with sweet chilli sauce, are perfect. Also recommended is massaman curry with coconut milk, potatoes and peanuts, either with prawns or vegetables.

Brahma Arama Vihara

Continuing west from Lovina, turn left at Dencarik and continue for about 3 km (2 miles) to Brahma Arama Vihara (daily 8am-6pm; admission charge) in Banjar. This striking Thai-style Theravada Buddhist temple, with its bright orange roof and colourful statues of Buddha and other figures, was founded in 1958 by a Balinese monk and rebuilt in 1971. The views down to the coast are stunning, and visitors are welcome as long as they dress modestly, lower their voices and walk quietly bare-footed. Note: the temple is closed for 10 days at a time during meditation retreats in April and September.

a colourful Buddha image at Brahma arama Vihara

Air Panas Banjar

Air Panas Banjar

From Brahma Arama Vihara, it’s another 3 km (2 miles) to Air Panas Banjar (daily 8am-6pm; admission charge), a natural sulphuric spring with slightly warmer than tepid water gushing out from the mouths of carved naga (serpents) into two pools. You can get a free massage from the water gushing out from the higher spouts at the third pool. There are changing rooms, toilets and restaurant on site, and the usual souvenir stalls along the path from, the parking lot to the springs. Simple lodgings are available nearby.

South of Singaraja to Gitgit

About 11 km (7 miles) south of Singaraja, take the turn-off on the left for the waterfall, Air Terjun Gitgit (daily daylight hours; admission charge). The thundering 40-metre (130-ft) waterfall is impressive, especially at the peak of the rainy season between January and March. The deep pool at the bottom of the falls is good for swimming according to local lore, couples who use the pool together will separate (you’re been warned!). Like most scenic places in Bali, persistent guides and numerous kiosks selling kitschy sou-venirs at the end of the approach road Ind along the footpath to the falls disturb the atmosphere. For more reace and quiet, 2 km (1 mile) further up the hill is another path along river and through forests that leads lo a series of multi-tiered waterfalls.

Danau Bratan

Beyond the Gitgit waterfalls, the road south twists and turns as it climbs up the mountainside, finally emerging at a crest with a Y-junction. Veering to the left, the main road descends into the ancient crater of Gunung Catur, which soars at 2,095 metres (6.915 ft) to the east. In this lovely landscape of vegetable and flower farms and cooler temperatures of the Tabanan regency sits serene Danau Bratan, a large lake surrounded by densely forested mountains topped by clouds. A wide range of tourist facilities are scatfred around the area, including the iectacular Bali Handara Kosaido ountry Club golf course.

Pura Ulun Danu Bratan

Because the lake is an essential water source for surrounding farmlands and rice fields in the southst and northwest parts of the island, the Balinese worship the  goddess of the lake, Dewi Danu, at Pura Ulun Danu Bratan (daily daylight hours; admission charge).

Built during the 17th century by king of Mengwi, this sacred site, dedicated to the lake goddess, is the second most important irrigation temple after Pura Ulun Danu Batur. However, the water level in the lake has continued to drop over the years due to development and deforestation; today, the graceful 11-tiered meru (pagoda), which once stood on a small islet and accessible only by canoe now can be reached by foot.

On the nearby shore are two other temples with numerous shrines and pavilions, and a stone stupa (memorial shrine) with four Buddha statues in niches facing the main compass directions. Villagers in this area lean more towards Buddhism with its simpler ceremonies and offerings.

Candi Kuning and Bedugul

On the western side of the lake, the colourful market town of Candi Kuning  is where wild orchids and colourful flowers are sold alongside temperate and tropical food crops grown in the region’s fertile soil. The farms here provide a constant supply of flowers for Balinese offerings and to hotels, along with a wide variety of fruits and vegetables for restaurants.

At the southern shore of the lake is Bedugul, the name of the small town here as well as the entire mountain resort area. Because of the higher altitude, temperatures in this region are much lower than the coast, giving it an alpine feel. There is nothing much of interest here except for the Taman Recreasi Bedugul, which has canoes, speed¬boats and noisy jet skis for hire.

Reataurant at Bedugul/Pacung

Japanese/International

Cafe Teras

Jalan Raya Denpasar Singaraja, Lempuna.Tel: 0362-29312. Open: daily B, L & D. $-$$

Located just outside the Bali Handara Kosaido Golf Club entrance. Sit at the garden terrace or inside in a colonial-style dining room as you tuck into miso soup, grilled chicken with a teriyaki sauce, and okonomiyaki, a Japanese-style pizza.

Kamandalu

Bali Handara Kosaido Golf and Country Club, Bedugul. Tel: 0362-22646. Open: daily B, L & D. $$-$$$ www.balihandarakosaido.com

Fine restaurant serving a variety of Japanese, Indonesian and Balinese dishes. Dining area over­looks the Peter Thomp­son-designed golf course.

Pacung lndah

Pacung. Tel: 0368-21020. Open: daily B, L & D. $-$$ www.pacungbali.com

Located in Pacung, just south of Begugul. As you gaze at lovely rice terraces, dine on Indonesian specialities and a few Western dishes prepared with local produce.

Bali Botanical Gardens

Near the Candi Kunung market, up a small side road is the lush Bali Botanical Gardens (daily 7am-5pm; admission charge; tel: 0368-21273). This sprawling site of more than 1.5 square km (154 hectares) has several hiking trails meandering through towering pine forests blanketed by cool air. To avoid getting lost, a very useful guidebook (Six Self Guided Walks in the Bali Botanical Gardens) can be purchased at the ticket office for Rp 20,000. There are over 650 species of trees in the area and nearly 500 species of orchids. This is a good place to have a relaxing picnic lunch.

Danau Buyan and Danau Tamblingan

From Danau Bratan, head northeast along the road that curves around Danau Buyan , a quiet lake embraced by hillsides covered with coffee plantations. A narrow strip of land separates it from the smaller Danau Tamblingan to the east. Each has a temple on its shore dedicated to the lake goddess. Both bodies of water were one until 1818 when a landslide divided it into two. The drive is very picturesque as it passes through small villages along the road, with vantage points to stop and enjoy the stunning views. The surrounding area is ideal for trekking.

Munduk

Beyond Danau Tamblingan the road winds its way down 6 km (4 miles) west to Munduk, an old mountain settlement with coffee, vanilla and clove plantations started by the Dutch during the late 1890s. The views down to the north coast are spectacular, the air crisp and clear.

The main road passes through remote villages and continues for 26 km (16 miles) all the way down Seririt, a town that was col pletely rebuilt after it was destroy by an earthquake in 1976. Turni right takes you back to Lovina wh left along the coastal road leads remote West Bali.

East Bali

In the Balinese world view, the east is an auspicious direction. Not surprisingly, Bali’s pre-eminent temple, Pura Besakih, is here. Vestiges of a former grandeur such as the palace remnants at Taman Gili – remain, and there are startling black sand beaches with hundreds of fishing outriggers moored onshore.

Neither as developed nor as rich as the southern part of the island, the eastern side of Bali has a different ambience defined by its lava-strewn landscapes and high, bare hills ribbed with ancient rice terraces. Partly hidden by the eastern coastal ranges is the colossal cone of the active volcano Gunung Agung, which at 3,014 metres (9,796 ft) high, dominates this drier, sparser side of Bali. The coastal strip along the eastern shore lined with fishing and salt-making villages and black sand beaches has become a tourist destination in its own right. Unfortunately, the gathering of coral to make lime for local construction has irreparably damaged some of the reefs and led to the erosion of many beaches. Further inland, a few villages, set in lush valleys, still retain their archaic traditions.

Pura Besakih

No matter which part of the island you’re coming from, the access point to Pura Besakih is via Menaga. From Menaga, follow the road another 5 km (3 miles) as it ascends to Pura Besakih (daily daylight hours; admission charge, camera fees extra). This is Bali’s largest and most important place of worship, often referred to as the “Mother Temple”. Opinions are divided on whether it’s worth visiting, mainly because of the overt commerce (there are souvenir shops and pesky vendors everywhere) and the hard-sell tactics of the ” official guides”.

Participants at a temple festival at Pura Besakih

Pura Besakih began as an ancient terraced mountain sanctuary as early as the 8th century AD. Over time it was enlarged, until it grew to its pre-sent size of over 30 public temples with hundreds of shrines, most of which were added between the 14th and 18th century. From the 5th to 17th century, Pura Besakih became the state sanctuary of the Gelgel dynasty. Today, the temple is overseen by the descendants of the Klungkung royal family who are direct heirs of the Gelgel kingdom.

In 1917, Pura Besakih was almost levelled by a massive earthquake and was rebuilt. In 1963, however, the temple miraculously suffered minimal damage during the eruption of Gunung Agung, even though it’s located only 6 km (4 miles) from the crater.

Pura Penataran Agung

Within the complex is the all-important Pura Penataran Agung, built on a series of terraces. A long flight of steps leads to an austere candi bentar (split gate) made of granite. Except for the setting with the peak of Gunung Agung looming overhead and panoramic views of south Bali below, it’s not a particularly attractive temple. Most of the structures are new, and there is usually lots of rubbish strewn around, especially during festivals. Non-worshippers are not allowed into the temple even if properly dressed, but one can see the inner sanctum through the gates or by walking around the complex and peering over the walls.

Pura Penataran Agung

Inside the main courtyard, which interestingly is not the highest one, is a large padmasana tiga (triple lotus shrine) of dark volcanic stone with three high seats on a single base for enthroning three aspects of the supreme god: Siwa, Sadasiwa and Paramasiwa. Many Balinese interpret this shrine as the more familiar Hindu trinity of Brahma, Wisnu (Vishnu), and Siwa (Shiva). The other temples that make up Pura Besakih are not worth seeing, although each one has a symbolical importance.

The main festival at Pura Besakih, Batara Turun Kabeh, when “the gods descend together”, takes place during the full moon in March or April. Thousands of worshippers come by bus and truck loads from all over Bali during this 11-day event.

Muncan

Back on the main road and 2 km (1 mile) downhill of Menanga, turn left at the T-junction in Rendang village to Muncan 2. Follow the road as it winds 4 km (2½ miles) east through spectacular rice terraces. On the eve of the lunar-solar New Year in March, a special ceremony takes place in Muncan, when two large male and female figures fashioned from special trees enact an ancient fertility rite with a simulated public mating. Afterwards, the figures are thrown into the river; it is believed that using the river water to irrigate the rice fields will result in bountiful harvests.

Pura Pasar Agung

Some 4 km (2½ miles) east of Muncan, in Selat, a paved road winds 12 km (7½miles) uphill through Sebudi and lava fields to Pura Pasar Agung (daily daylight hours; donation). Completely destroyed during the 1963 eruption of Gunung Agung, it was rebuilt and expanded during the late 1990s. Located at the top of a long flight of stairs, the setting is spectacular with the summit of Agung up close and stunning panoramas of east Bali peeking out from the clouds below. Inside is a triple lotus shrine similar tothe one  found at Pura Besakih.

Iseh and Sidemen

Back on the main road, just 1½ km (1 mile) east in Selat-Duda is a T-junction. Turn right and follow the road as it winds 12 km (7½ miles) down hill through scenic rice fields in Iseh where the German artist Walter Spies built a home in 1937 to escape from his increasingly hectic social life in Campuan to Sidemen. This village is a centre for handwoven songket (gold or silver thread brocade) and endek (weft-ikat cloth). Hikes through Sideman’s idyllic surroundings can be made by contacting guesthouses in the area.

Also in the village is Yayasan Siddhamaha (Great Accomplish-ments Foundation), a Swiss-spon-sored school for teaching local adolescents Balinese language, lit-erature, palm-leaf inscribing, painting, music and dance in addition to the regular curriculum.

Klungkung (Semarapura)

About 10 km (6½miles) downhill from Sideman, turn right into Satria. where colourful gold-leafed parasols line the streets. These and other temple and ceremonial paraphernalia are made here. Follow the road 1 km (½ mile) west as it crosses a bridge over the Unda River into Klungkung, also known as Semaripura.

Puputan Klungkung Monument

During the late 17th century, the kingdom of Gelgel, based in Gelgel, lost a series of battles and allegiances. One of the king’s ministers revolted and put himself on the throne, and a Iong battle ensued to regain it. In 1710, a new court was built at Klungkun: because the old site at Gelgel was considered cursed. As the seat of the Dewa Agung, the highest of the Balinese  kings, Klungkung holds a special place in the island’s history and culture; many of Klungkung’s king-and noblemen supported and developed styles of music, drama and that flourish today in Bali.

Just east of the main crossroads in Klungklung is the shopping area. Explore the handful of antiques shops on the main street and the multi-storey Pasar Klungkung market (daily 7am-4pm) at the back for local items and wares. Towering over the town centre is the Puputan Klungkung Monument. This som¬bre black stone tower commemo¬rates the massacre of the Klungkung royal family by the Dutch in 1908.

Taman Gili

Ceiling paintings at Bale Kerta Gosa

Today, the remains of the old palace are found across the street within the grounds of Taman Gill (daily 9am-5pm; admission charge for all pavilions and museum). Bale Kerta Gosa (Pavilion of Peace and Prosperity) to the right of the main entrance has exquisite examples of painting and architecture in the traditional Klungkung style.

Often mistakenly referred to as the Hall of Justice because of its ceiling paintings (no criminal cases would have been tried in such a grand place), different animal-headed armrests on the chairs indicate that the king (lion), his priests (bulls) and advisers (serpents) met here to consult on affairs of the realm. The ceiling paintings, arranged in several tiers, are in the wayang (puppet figure) style of Kamasan, named after the village where artists still paint such works.

Reading from bottom to top and going clockwise, they mostly tell the story of Bima Swarga (Heavenly Bima) from the Mahabharata epic. The hero Bima searches for the souls of his parents in the underworld, battling first with demons and the god of hell, and then against the heavenly deities to allow their souls to enter paradise. Other levels show the Tantri animal fables, the story of the mytho-logical Garuda bird, and events caused by earthquakes.

The adjacent Bale Kambang (Floating Pavilion), built in the middle of an artificial pool, was mainly used by the royal family as a place to rest and be entertained. The ceiling paintings show Balinese astrological signs along with the Buddhist tales of the Men Brayut family with 18 children, and the Bod-hisattva Sutasoma battling demons.

Bale Kambang the floating pavilion

Semarajaya Museum

On the left hand side of Taman Gili stands the red-brick gate of the former palace, now fenced-off as a shrine. According to local lore, the palace doors mysteriously sealed shut by themselves after the royal family was massacred, and no one has dared to open them since. Look for figures of Chinese, Portuguese and Dutch figures scrambling up the sides of the gate.

At the back of the grounds lies Semarajaya Museum (currently closed for renovations), mostly filled with artefacts of the Klungkung region such as traditional weapons, puppet-style painting, and tools for weaving and salt-making. Some old photos of the former court are also on display. An adjoining section houses a collection of paintings and sculptures by the Italian artist Emilio Ambron (1905-96), who lived and worked in Bali during the 1930s.

Tihingan

Head 2% km (2 miles) west out of town on the main road to the interesting gamelan-making village of Tihingan (Bamboo). Families this village here keep furnaces ht. ing to melt bronze for the keys an kettles of Balinese gamelan musicaL instruments. Go during the cooler morning hours before noon when most of the work is done at the small • foundaries located behind homes-Listen for rhythmic pounding, but as the forging is not done every day it’s a matter of being there at the right time. Wooden instrument cases which hold the gamelan keys arc also carved and gilded here.

Nyoman Gunarsa Museum

From the Tihingan crossroads, h. 2½ km (2 miles) downhill to Nyoman Gunarsa Museum (daily 9am-4pm; admission charge: 0366-22255; www.gunarsamus corn). The four-storey building hot a collection of traditional Balir. . paintings, masks, carvings other antiques, including contern, rary semi-abstract works by Nyoman Gunarsa, founder of museum and other modern Balinese artists.

Kamasan

a Kamasan style painting

About 2 km (1 mile) south of Klungkung is Kamasan, where artists use natural pigments to illustrate episodes from Indian epics, Javanese-Balinese romances, legends, and astrological and agricul¬tural charts in the wayang ‘puppet-figure) style. Workshops are found along the main street; although Kamasan-style paintings are sold all over Bali, cheaper and better quality works are found here. One of the leading practioners of this art form, I Nyoman Mandra, still lives in Kamasan. Be sure to stop by the Kamasan Art Centre in the village to see some fine examples of Kamasan painting. The centre also runs classes in painting, dance and gamelan playing.

Gelgel

Just south of Kamasan is Gelgel (pronounced ghell-ghell), the former capital of the Klungkung dynasty. In the late 1400s and 1500s, the Balinese kings here wielded immense power during the golden age of art, culture and religion. Today there is little evidence of its former glory; the town feels more Islamic in char-acter and is dominated by a large mosque. Exquisite handwoven songket (brocade with gold or silver threads) and endek (weft-ikat cloth) are made in many homes in Gelgel.

ceremony at Pura Dasar in Gelgel

Gelgel’s Pura Dasar (daily day-hght hours; donation) is a large and Important temple for members of the pasek commoner clans. The temple has ancient megalithic stone seats and rows of beautiful meru (pagodas) built in the local style. During the full moon in October, dozens of villagers come here to take part in a very colourful temple ceremony.

Kusamba

Leave Klungkung and head towards the coast at Kusamba where numerous colourful jukung or fishing outriggers with painted faces line the black-sand shores of its beach.

Apart from fishing, salt making is the other main activity in this region, evidenced by the thatched huts and wooden troughs lined up along isolated stretches of the beach near Kusamba and sections of the northeastern coast around Amed and Tianyar. To produce salt, villagers splash seawater onto plots of sand, a process repeated many times. The dense salt-infused sand is then placed in conical wooden vats in the thatched huts and seawater is poured over it. Concentrated salt water filters into pots, and is then poured into long wooden troughs outside to partially evaporate into sludge. The wet crystals are then scooped into bamboo baskets to let the liquid drain out and left to dry completely.

making sea salt near Kusamba

Nusa Penida

Across from Kusamba off the south eastern coast lies three sparsely populated islands  Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan which can be accessed by boat from the mainland (either Kusamba, Benoa harbour in the south, or Padang Bai in the east). The largest of the islands is Nusa Penida , which covers 240 sq km (95 sq miles) and has around 47,000 people who subsist largely on fishing and seaweed farming.

the rugged coast of Nusa Penida

Originally a penal colony for the Klungkung kingdom on the mainland, Nusa Penida is dry and austere. Many of its in habitants are considered to be experts in black magic, for this is the home of the great fanged lord of supernatural forces, Ratu Gede Mas Mecaling. Kain cepuk, weft-ikat cloths with geometric designs on red backgrounds, sacred to the queen of black magic Rangda, are woven in many villages, as are the ritual kain keling striped cloths.

Pura Penataran Ped in Nusa Penida

Nusa Penida gets very little tourist traffic, and is ideal if you want to escape the hordes of south Bali and experience something out of the ordinary. Boats from Nusa Lembongan drop passengers off at Toyopakeh in the north, where public bemo and rental vehicles with drivers can be used for an exploration of the island. About 3 km (1½ miles) east of Toyopakeh is the temple complex at Pura Penataran Ped (daily daylight hours; donation). It comprises Pura Segara, dedicated to the sea deity, Pura Taman, honouring Wisnu (Vishnu), Pura  Ratu Gede to the lord of sorcery, Pura Dalem Ped to the deities of death. All the temple walls and gates are made of local white limestone.

Past the main town at Sampalan continue down the eastern  coast to Goa Giri Putri (Cave of the Mountain Princess), near the village of Suwana. Here, steep stairs lead to the cave dedicated to Parwati, consort of Siwa (Shiva). Guides with pressure lamps wait at a small temple near the mouth of the cave. After a short but steep descent down a  tiny opening with a low ceiling, the cave opens up to 15 metres (50 ft) high, Diesel-powered lights barely show the way, so walk carefully around the small holes and protruding rock covered with slippery droppings from bats. Shrines dot the interior and it is possible to climb a ladder to the upper niches. After about 300 metres (1,000 ft), sunlight shines through a large opening overlooking a valley.

Other sights on the island worth exploring are Tanglad, where weaving is the mainstay, and the waterfall at Batukandik. Further in land a rough road leads to the highest point, Bukit Emas (Golden Hill) at 521 metres (1,700 ft), which has stunning panoramas from its temple, Pura Puncak Mundi.

Nusa Lembongan

The island of Nusa Lembongan, although much smaller at 10 sq km (4 sq miles), far outstrips its sister and in terms of visitor numbers. The white sand beaches at Jungut Batu and Mushroom Bay along its western coast are ringed with cosy guesthouses and boutique resorts, ideal for extended stays, while ach clubs offer snorkelling and diving facilities for daytrippers arriving on catamarans from Tanjong Benoa. Apart from diving, which the waters around thescoast at Dream Beach during the dry season. The surf breaks, with names like Shipwreck, Lacerations and Playground, can be dangerous and are not meant for novices.

Mushroom Bay at Nusa Lembongan

Visitors can travel around the island (which is small enough to be covered on foot or mountain bike) to seaweed farms and mangrove swamps. In Lembongan village, the bizzare Rumah di Bawah Tanah (Underground House) was built over 40 years ago by a local priest acting upon divine inspiration. It has a living room, bedrooms and kitchen with a well carved out of natural limestone, but no one actu¬ally lives here. Local guides take visitors around for a small fee.

Reataurant at Nusa Lembongan

Most eateries are found within hotels, although there are some decent warung (local stalls) in the Jungutbatu area.

Manggis
Like most places in the east coast of Bali, the best restaurants are those found within hotels. The following are recommended.

International

Seasalt

Alila Manggis, Buitan, Manggis. Tel: 0363-41011. Open: daily B, L & D. $$-$$$
www.alilahotels.com
Stylish restaurant housed in an open-air Balinese pavilion overlooking lotus ponds. The food is con-temporary with international, Balinese and Indonesian dishes. Sal-ads, sandwiches and light meals during the day and more elaborate dinners at night. The restaurant is well known for its cooking classes, which are either half-day, or longer 2- or 5-day programmes.

Nusa Ceningan

East of Lembongan village, a 1-km (½ mile) suspension bridge connects to the smallest island in the group, Nusa Ceningan. You can climb 65 metres (200 feet) up the island’s highest hill for some great views. The lagoon is filled with bamboo frames used to cultivate seaweed, which is exported and used as an emulsifying agent in cosmetics and processed food. Seaweed cultivation is also a major activity on Nusa Penida and Nusa Lembongan, with over 80 percent of its local population engaged in this activity.

Pura Goa Lawah

Back on the mainland, about 2½ km (2 miles) east of Kusamba is the bat cave temple of Pura Goa Lawah (daily daylight hours; admission charge), where the walls literally vibrate with thousands of bats their bodies packed so close together the upper surface of the cave resembles undulating mud. Occasionally a python, believed to be a manifesta¬tion of the mythological underworld serpent Basuki, appears and feeds on them. In 2004, one snake died and was respectfully cremated.

devotees at Pura Goa Lawah

Lining the entrance are several small shrines covered with smelly bat droppings. The temple is very important for post-cremation rites: on the beach across the street, the soul is called in from the sea and a container is symbolically filled with seawater and brought to the cave. After rituals are performed, it’s then brought to Pura Dalem Puri, which is part of Pura Besakih complex. The cave is said to extend via a lava tube all the way to Pura Goa also in the Besakih complex.

Padangbai

Some 1½ km (1 mile) east along th, road, a scenic point by the shore with huge regional symbols marks exit from Klungkung and entrance to Karangasem. A furth, km (3 miles) east is a T-junction, veering right leads to Padangbai. This picturesque bay cradled by hills is the main port for the Bali-Lombok ferries and the public boats to Nusa Penida. Passenger and cargo vessels as well as yachts and internatio cruise liners stop by here, and is a range of tourist facilities.

At a headland east of Padang is Pura Silayukti, built in honour the great Javanese priest Empu Kuturan, who lived in this area at beginning of the 11th century. The temple occupies the site of his former home. From its vantage location are good views of the bay below.

Beyond the temple on the o side of the headland are Blue Lagoon and Teluk Jepun (Japan Bay), both good for snorkelling and diving. At Blue Lagoon, snorkelling areas are easily accessible from the beach while getting to the snorkelling sites in Telok Jepun requires a short boat trip. The coral reefs are varied as is the marine life, but the waters can be cold and cloudy do at times. Diving trips can be arran through local operators at Padangbai.

Balina and Manggis

Beyong Padangbai comes the broad sweep of Teluk Amuk (Amuk Bay), the site of a controversial road crosses an iron bridge, a track leads down to Buitan village and  Balina    beach. Its black sands however have been lost to erosion, leaving behind mainly black pebbles. Apart from simple guesthouses, this is where you’ll find the fabled Amankila resort (which is blessed with a surprisingly picturesque sandy beach) and the more modest but still stylish Alila Manggis.

Nearby is the fishing village of Manggis, which takes its name from the delectable mangosteen fruit (look for the giant statue of this purple-skinned fruit along the road).

Amankila resort has beautiful vitas of east Bali

Sengkidu

Further east along the main road is Sengkidu. The Pura Puseh iopen daylight hours; free) temple has a colourful ceremony during the full moon in November with men in trance stabbing themselves with sharp daggers and hundreds of villagers doing ritual dances together. Small hotels and guesthouses line the beach at Sengkidu, which has similarly been affected by erosion.

Tenganan

Continue east on the main road, and at a junction before Candidas turn left up an asphalt road to the Bali Aga (aboriginal Balinese) village of Tenganan (daily daylight hours; admission charge). The village is surrounded by a wall and houses line both sides of a long, stone-paved terrace with ritual pavilions in the cen¬tre. Until the 1970s, Tenganan was a closed society, visited only by the occasional ethnologist. An entrance fee is now charged, a sign that times have changed. The villagers practise unusual rituals, many of which date from Bali’s pre-Hindu animist days. The dead, for instance, are not cre-mated in this village; instead, the bodies are buried naked face down.

By one account the inhabitants originally came from East Java, but another legend from the 14th century tells of the king of Bedulu in Gianyar whose favourite horse ran away. He sent his subjects to search for it; some went east and found the corpse of the animal When the king offered to reward them, they asked for the land wherever the decaying horse could be smelled. For several days one of the men led the court official around, yet the air remained pungent with the odour of rotting horse. When the tired official decided that too much land had been given up and left, the gleeful man who led him pulled out a piece of smelly horse flesh hidden inside his clothes.

The village still owns these large tracts of land, making it one of the richest in this area. By tradition, the men do not work the fields but hire people from the surrounding areas to cultivate them in return for a share of the harvest. The men instead spend their time inscribing dried fan-palm leaves to make illustrated lontar (manuscripts), or crafting basketry from smoked ata (liana vines).

young village women in Tenganan

The village women weave the famous double-ikat cloth called geringsing, which means “illness-free”. A single high-quality cloth can take up to five years to complete. A finely woven piece can cost several thousand dollars, and they are in great demand by Balinese for rituals and by foreign collectors and museums overseas. In the village souvenir shops, you will mostly find inferior quality fabrics for sale at lower prices.

During ceremonies, girls wear geringsing and adorn their hair with gold flowers for ritual dances accompanied by men playing the gamelan selonding, an archaic and rare music ensemble with iron-keyed metallophones.

In June or July during the annual Usaba Sambah festival lasting a month, creaky wooden ayunan (ferris-wheels) are set up and manually operated by men. Unwed village maidens ride these as part of ancient fertility rites; the turning symbolises the descent of the sun to the earth.

Another Tenganan practice diring the Usaba Sambah festival is the makare, where men engage in a fight using thorny pandanus leaves accompanied by gamelan selondim music. Both opponents must draw blood as offerings to the demons. warding off attacks with ra shields. After the battles, the wounds are treated with a stinging mixture of turmeric and vine that, miraculously, leaves no scars.

Candidasa

Lagoon at Candidasa

On the main road just past the T ganan junction is the beachsi resort area of Candidasa 0. Unfortunately, the shore is blighted ugly jetties protruding into the w too little and too late to stop the sion caused from years of unbri coral removal for construction. Now the remaining sand only emerges low tide, barely enough to lie do on a towel and sunbathe. Neve less, the eastern end of Candi still has some nice beaches, like scenic Pasir Putih beach which blessed with soft white sands. didasa has a good range of ho and restaurants and is an excell base to explore eastern Bali.

Across from Candidasa’s m made lagoon is Pura Candi D (daily daylight hours; donation), 12th-century complex built on eral levels on the hillside. One of upper temples is for Hariti, originally child-eating ogress who converted to Buddhism and became a protector of children. The Balinese call her Men Brayut, from the folktale of a mother who had 18 children. Women who want to conceive come here to pray and make offerings to her.

Reataurant at  Candidasa

Most restaurants here serve grilled seafood along with other stan-dard Indonesian dishes. Like Ubud, this is another area that is beginning to see foreign professionals opening up more international-style restaurants. There are a number of options outside of the hotels.

Dutch

Vincent’s

Jalan Raya Candidasa. Tel: 0363-41368. Open: daily L & D. $$
Smart Dutch-owned restaurant with a lounge area. Serves a mix of local and European cuisines. The latter menu includes dishes like mushrooms on toast (pan-fried in butter, garlic and red wine); pineapple shrimp cocktail with whisky sauce; and croque monsieur (toasted ham and cheese sandwich). Dutch-style breakfasts (uitsmijten) and good Illy coffees are also available. Cool jazz music is often played in the background.

Indonesian/Asian

Candi Agung

Jalan Raya Candidasa. Tel: 0363-41672. Open: daily B, L & D. $—$$
Small clean warungthat features a Balinese dance performance every evening at 8pm, when one of the wait-resses changes into cos¬tume and performs on a small stage at the front. Simple, well-executed Indonesian Chinese dishes, featuring many chicken and fish dishes. Especially good is udung goreng, or grilled prawns with Balinese sambal.

International

Garpu

Rama Candidasa, Candi Dasa. Tel: 0363-41974. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
www.ramacandidasahotel.com
Air-conditioned restau-rant with ocean views across Padang Bai. Its resident French chef cooks up some of the best food in this area. Must-trys are his feuil-fete de crevettes a la Americaine, sautéed shrimps served in a light puff pastry case and smothered with a lobster sauce, and the most per¬fect duck terrine served with Cumberland sauce. A variety of delectable breads are baked in-house daily.

Kafe Watergarden

Jalan Raya Candidasa. Tel: 0363-41540. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
www.watergardenhotel.com
A part of the impressive Watergarden hotel, this English-managed restau-rant serves quality and value-for-money food. Dishes are Indonesian with some international favourites (even some Thai-inspired meals). Vegetarian options are also available. 

Lotus Seaview

Jalan Raya Candidasa. Tel: 0363-41257. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
www.lotusrestaurants.com
Another restaurant from the well-regarded Lotus chain, this is a pleasant place with prime sea views, serving a mix of Balinese food, and West ern dishes with Italian accents. The famous bebek betutu does not have to be preordered.

Temple Café Temple Bungalows

Jalan Raya Candidasa. Tel: 0363- 41629. Open: daily B, L & $—$$
www.bali-seafront-bungalows.com
Australian-owned eaten featuring some home-style German dishes such as cabbage rolls. Excellent big breakfasts and many unusual items. such as curried shep-herd’s pie. For a quick snack, try the spicy chicken and salad wrap. Great value for money.

Bukit Gumang

After Candidasa, the road climbs and winds for 5 km (3 miles) through the hills to Bukit Gumang. On every even-numbered year by the light of the full moon in October, the perang dewa (Battle of the Gods) takes place ere. Thousands of people from four surrounding villages ascend 300 tres (1,000 ft) to the peak, carrying, offerings of suckling pigs which then hung from frangipani trees. Men bearing images of the village deities in portable shrines fall into trance, causing the palanquins to collide and battle with each other.

From Bukit Gumang, the road ends to Bugbug (pronounced g-boog), where long narrow wide enough only for a single person to pass through, run perpendiacular to the village’s one main road.

Amlapura

Continue along the main road to Amlapura 0, the capital of the Karangasem region. This former kingdom was founded during the weakening of the Gelgel court in the 17th century. By the late 18th and early 19th centuries, it was the most powerful state in Bali, and had extended its domain to the neigh¬bouring island of Lombok.

Amlapura’s main attraction is the old palace complex of Puri Agung Karangasem (daily 9am-5pm; admission charge), a fusion of European and Asian architectural styles and,design dating back to the turn of the 20th century. Now unoccupied, the main palace building with a wide verandah is the Bale Maskerdam, named after Amsterdam in Holland and in deference to the Dutch who allowed the king of Karangasem to retain his royal title and some of his powers in return for his cooperation. Inside is some furniture donated by the Dutch royal family. Opposite is the ornate Bale Pemandesan, a pavilion used for tooth-filing cere¬monies and embellished with Chinese features. The third pavilion, Bale Kambang, appears to float in the middle of a large artificial pool. It was used by the royal family for mainly relaxing and entertainment.

Taman Ujung

The kings of Karangasem created delightful water gardens to escape from the heat of eastern Bali. Taman Ujung 0 (daily 8am-5pm; admission charge), the “Eternal Happiness Park” at Ujung, about 8 km (5 miles) south of Amlapura, is a vast complex of pools, pavilions and a long bridge with archways, all artistically moulded in concrete Built in 1921, the water park was destroyed by an earthquake in 1979. After a long drawn restoration, it opened in 2004 and is once more worthy of a visit. It still looks a little stark and it will take some time before the vegetation grows and the park takes on more character.

Ujung to Amed

From Ujung the road continues about 6 km (4 miles) along the coast and uphill to Seraya.A vehicle with very good brakes (preferably a 4-wheel drive) is necessary, especially for con¬tinuing further along the northeastern coast to Amed. The views of the ocean along this route are breathtaking with black sand beaches filled with literally hundreds of colourful jukung (outrigger canoes) and is worthwhile for those seeking adventure. From Seraya, it winds another 25 km (15h miles) or so along a narrow road filled with sharp bends around the base of Gunung Seraya (1,175 metres/ 3,855 ft) to the beach-side resort area of Amed.

Taman Tirtagangga to Amed

An easier and just as picturesque route to Amed continues 6 km (4 miles) northwest of Amlapura to Taman Tirtagangga (daily 8am-5pm; admission charge with additional fees for different pools the “Water of the Ganges Park–another royal water park Locals flock here just before sunset to bathe in pools fed by natural springs gush¬ing out from animal statues and fountains. Parts of this water part were destroyed by the eruption of Gunung Agung in 1963 and subsequently repaired. Some recently added architectural elements, however, don’t do justice to the site.

Pura Lempuyang

From Taman Tirtagangga, the road leads 4 km (2½ miles) to Abang, with spectacular views between two mountains, Gunung Agung to the west and Gunung Seraya to the easy Back in the late 1960s (or so the story goes), before electricin reached this part of Bali, a space satellite reported the observation o a blue beam emanating from Earth. the precise location was plotted and the source was confirmed as the temple of Pura Lempuyang (daily daylight hours; donation).

rice fields at Abang

Just east from the main road is a shite structure nestled on the hillside; this is the split gate of the lower temple. Drive up to this point by turning nsht at Abang, and on a clear day you will see a breathtaking view of Gunung Agung, perfectly framed sithin the boundaries of the gate. The temple guardians three pairs of atiossal sea serpents, complete with scales and ferocious teeth border a rio of withinng steps, but this is only beginning. About 1 kilometre further on, a stairway of 1,700 steps winds through the forest up to the temple itself, 768 metres (2,520 ft) above sea level. The intense spiritual energy of this place is almost tangible.

From Abang, it’s another 14 km (9 Tales) along a winding road, forking 7:dit first at Culik, to Amed.

Amed

Although Amed refers to the fishing village of that name, it also -eters to the series of mostly black ebble beaches tucked into coves Ind stretching several kilometres siong the coast, like Jemeluk, Lipah, Lehan, Selang and Aas. Looking out lo sea are views of Lombok while luxe inland are of Gunung Agung. All along the beach are colourful fishing jukung (outriggers) and hatched huts where salt is produced. It is an idyllic setting and perfect for time who shun crowds. Village life s simple and rustic here, but there’s rough tourism infrastructure in the b a!, of small hotels and restaurants aiong the coast to keep visitors occupied for a few days. There are also ample opportunities for diving, snorkelling and mountain treks.

Sunset at Amed with Gunung Agung in the background

Reataurant at  Amed

The district referred to as Amed actually comprises, more than 10 small fis– ing villages spread ou- the south of Amed. McF of the action centres around Lipah beach.

Indonesian

Café lndah

Lipah Beach,Amed. Tel: 0363-23437. Open: daily L & D. $
Small warung right on the edge of the beach. Simple, cheap and well prepared food. Try the fish in black bean, the xcellent sate, chilli prawn and sweet and our chicken.

Restaurant Gede

Lipah Beach,Amed. 0363-23517. Open: roily B, L & D. $$$
Probably the best Indonesian Chinese cuisine available in the Amed area, although more expensive  than the norm. Seafood dishes include slipper lobster, king prawn and whatever that is locally caught. Enormous menu. A personal favourite is the chicken or fish mandarin.

Warung Brith

Lipah Beach, Amed. Tel; 0363-23527. Open: tat,/ L & D. $$
Very popular and friendly warung. Its special dish ang shio hie, or Chinese style sweet and cur fish except it is wary different from the normal sickly sweet offerings of suburban Chinese restaurants around the world. Here it consists of big chunks of fresh fish, stir-fried with finely shredded onions, pineapple, red and green peppers and topped with a flavourful, tangy sauce. Traditional Balinese dishes like bebek betutu and babi guling are also available if pre-ordered.

Wayan’s Warung

Limpah Beach, Amed. Open: dailyB,L&D.$
small local warung carving freshly cooked, esty and amazing-value -eals. The fare is mostly Indonesian Chinese, like foo yung hai (vegetable and chicken omelette topped with a spicy sambal sauce), crisp tempeh in a sweet-spicy soy sauce, and chicken or fish rolls rolled in grated coconut. There is also grilled freshly caught fish and wonderful satay too.
International

Dancing Dragon

Dancing Dragon Bungalows, Bunutan,Amed.Tel: 0363- 41177. Open: daily B, L & D. $$ www.dancingdragoncottages.com
This is a complex built and managed by Karen Kingston, writer of many feng shui books (seminars are held at adjoining conference centre). An interesting mix of cuisines is offered, such as Singapore laksa (rice noodles in spicy coconut  milk gravy) and ayam mente (wok-sautéed chicken breast pieces) served with rice.  

Life in Amed

Life In Amed Resort, Lean, Amed. Mobile tel: 081-338 645037. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
www.lifebali.com
Clean and small restaurant serving a mix of Western and local cuisines, all impressively presented. Recom-mended are the salad of goat’s cheese (served with figs and toasted pine nuts); chicken salad with Dijon cream dressing; prawn and pineapple in coconut milk curry; and whole baby red snapper perfectly grilled and served with a Bali-nese lawar salad. 

Sails

Horizon Resort, Lean, Amed. Tel: 0362-22006. Open: daily L & D. $$
Magical position on the mountainside of the main road and blessed with stunning ocean views (part of the Horizon Resort still under construction). Serves local and Western dishes but all done a little differently than usual. The chicken mandarin with star anise, lamb medallions, barbecued pork ribs and freshly caught fish all rate highly. 

Santai

Santai Bungalows, Bunutan, Amed. Tel: 0363-23487. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
www.santaibali.com
The chef prepares arguably the best selection of international food in the Amed area. Top favourites are the cous¬cous salad with tandoori chicken, roasted garlic soup with king prawns, ginger-glazed barracuda fillet with vegetable noodles and cashew nuts, and the traditional Bali¬nese ikan pepes – fish minced with coconut and spices then wrapped in banana leaf and grilled. 

The Pavilion

Baliku Resort, Banyuning, Amed. Tel: 081-338 209173. Open: daily L & D. $$
Large open terrace on hillside with magnificient views across to Lombok and the surrounding mountains; located just opposite the Japanese shipwreck (popular for snorkelling). The herb cheese filo parcels are very popular, as is the Tuscan baked chicken. 

Puri Wirata

Bunutan, Amed. Tel: 0363- 23523. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
German-managed bungalows and restaurant, sited at the edge of the ocean among palm trees. The usual mix of Indonesian and Western cuisines is offered. Also available in the mornings is a German breakfast – bratkartoffekn (pan-fried mix of sliced potato, bacon and onion, and topped with a fried egg).

Tulamben Marine Reserve

To reach the northeastern coast, return to Culik and turn right. About 10km (6 miles) from Culik is the Talamben Marine Reserve 0. Diving and snorkelling is the main Activity at the site of the wrecked American navy cargo ship Liberty, which was sailing in the Lombok Strait in January 1942 when it was torpedoed by the Japanese. The ship was towed to Bali but sank just before reaching shore. Shockwaves from the 1963 eruption of Gunung Agung broke it in half and pushed it 50 metres (150 ft) further offshore to its present location. There, over the years, it became home to a wide variety of tropical fish and coral.

Reataurant at  Tulamben

German

Tauch Terminal Tulamben. Tel: 0363-22911. Open: daily B, L & D. $$
www.tauch-terminal.com
Pleasant seaside location at a popular site for scuba diving (the shipwreck Liberty is just offshore). A mix of home-style Euro¬pean and Indonesian dishes are found on the menu. Thanks to its German management, dishes include a German-style breakfast.

Northeast coast

A long stretch of well-paved road runs along the northeast coast, which still shows evidence from the 1963 eruption of Gunung Agung in the form of dark lava flows on the moun-tainsides. It’s a stark, raw and dramatic drive with mostly dry hills covered with scrub and lava boulders and punctuated by fan palm and coconut trees. Along the way are the salt-making villages of Kubu and Tianyar, with wooden troughs for evaporating seawater lining black-sand beaches like those found at Kusamba. There is little of interest till Tejakula.