Isolated villages in the cooler central produce handicrafts such as ikat cloth, ceramics and baskets. As you head south, there is magnificent coastal scenery, including splendid beaches better than any you’ll find in neighbouring Bali

Central Lombok, located on the southern slopes of Gunung Rinjani, is cooler and more lush than the south, receiving much rainfall in the wet season and protected by forests and jungle throughout the rest of the year. Traditional villages dot the slopes, with livelihoods centred on handicrafts such as pottery, textiles, woven grass and bamboo crafts, and woodworking. Continuing south, away from the mountains, the landscape becomes much drier and fields of tobacco, corn, cassava and peanuts become the norm. On reaching the south coast, the landscape opens up to reveal a long coastline with some of the most sublime beaches and views in Indonesia.

Around Lenek

Heading from the east coast on the main road from Labuhan Lombok is Lenek. This whole area has many small villages whose people still practise adat Sasak (traditional customs). Well known as a source of traditional Sasak music and dance, Lenek also offers tani pepakon, a medicinal trance dance. A local cultural patron of the arts has established an organisation to reinvigorate the performing arts in Lenek.

To the west is Pringgasela e, a village steeped in tradition and a major centre for ikat weaving. Visit the small houses and shops here to purchase traditionally woven fabrics.

Southeast of Lenek is Bonjeruk, a village of dalang (puppeteers) for the shadow play wayang sasak; many of the puppets are made here. Past Bonjeruk is Masbagik, most well known as a centre of pottery and ceramic crafts; the pottery made here has distinctive geometric pattterns.

Loyok and Tetebatu

Following the main road another few kilometres further west, a road leads north to Loyok, a small dusty village where the families make traditional woven products, using rattan, grasses and bamboo. The baskets, boxes, mats and other weaving are of good quality and often sent to Bali, where they fetch much higher prices. Visit the shops and the family compounds out at the back, where often several generations of the same family weave.

Continuing north is Tetebatu, on the southern slopes of Gunung Rinjani. This is a cool mountain retreat with beautiful rice terraces, forests and bright green fields of tobacco. It is wet and misty during the rainy season, and cool and lush during the dry. To the north of Tetebatu, about an hour’s trekking through a monkey-filled forest, is a nice waterfall called Jeruk Manis. It’s best to take a local guide with you, as there have been security problems in the past.

Praya, Sukarara & Penujak

About half-an-hour drive southeast of Cakranegara, Praya is a crossroads and the hub of the south. Home of the Saturday market, it is close to many handicraft villages.

Some 5 km (3 miles) to the we of Praya is the weaving village of Sukarara, where traditional ikat fabric is made. Weavers work outside many of the shops, using antiquated back strap looms tc painstakingly produce works of art. Some of the larger pieces can take several months to weave, and collectors from around the world visit this village to purchase the blankets. sarongs and cloth produced here.

South of Praya is Penujak, one of Lombok’s main pottery making centres. Shops and workshops line the main road, and local children will run out to greet you and guide you into the shops when you arrive. Penujak pottery uses mainly animal motifs, including frogs and geckos as decoration.

Rembitan and Sade

Travelling down to the south coast, you pass small farming villages drier, flatter landscape compared the north to Rembitan village first on the right, and then Sade on the left along the main road just before Kuta. These are traditional Sasak villages sandwiched between the main road and the rice fields. Rembitan is a popular tourist stop with clusters of thatched lumbung, or rice barns. Sade is a more authentic hilltop village with the oldest mosque in Lombok, Mesjid Kuno. This ancient, thatched-roof house of worship can only be entered by Muslims. Both villages are interesting examples of traditional Sasak architecture and communal living. Residents, who act as guides for a small fee, encourage walks through either of the two villages.

Kuta

Kuta, on the south coast, lags behind Senggigi in development, but still has a decent variety of accommodation and restaurants. Kuta has a beautiful white sand beach, and is located about 45 km (28 miles) from Cakranegara or 1½ hours’ drive from Senggigi. It is a good base for exploring the beautiful southern coastline. Kuta and the surrounding region has gained a reputation for having some of the best surfing spots in Southeast Asia. It is here that the gentle waters of Lombok meet the currents of the Indian Ocean, forming great surf breaks and fantastic vistas of cliffs, headlands and beaches carved out of the rugged southern coastline.

The stylish Novotel Coralia on Mandalika beach is in an excellent location and is reasonably priced; smaller Kuta hotels and homestays are cheaper options. Kuta market (Wed and Sun mornings) is a lively cacophony of chickens and friendly locals, and is brightened by an array of colourful fruits and woven baskets. Mandalika beach is also the site of the annual Bau Nyale festival, just to the east of the Novotel Coralia hotel. This unusual event, which is primarily a secular gathering, attracts over 100,000 people every year.

Tanjung Ean and Gerepuk

East of Kuta are a series of beautiful, untouched beaches. Tanjung Aan has spectacular scenery off the peninsula, with a few vendor shacks and a virtually undisturbed white sand beach. Another 3 km (2 miles) east is the beach and fishing village of Gerupuk, located on the spit of land that juts out into the ocean, with stunning views of the sea and the surrounding islands and bays. Gerupuk is well known as a surf location and ideal for windsurfing or bodysurfing.

East of Gerupuk

Further east, just beyond Batu Nampar village, is the little-visited village of Batu Rintang. With traditional thatched rice barns and huts, it offers an honest look at local life. Outside Batu Nampar are salt works and floating seaweed frames, farmed by migrants from South Sulawesi and Madura.

Continuing around the bay, northeast of Batu Nampar is Jerowaru, site of a Thursday market. To the south is Ekas, a magnificent bay framed by cliffs overlooking the breathtaking coast. Further east on the east coast is Tanjung Luar, site of a major fish market and inhabited by Bugis fishermen from Sulawesi, who arrived here during the early 1600s.

Mawun and Selong Blanak

About 30 minutes drive to the we of Kuta, the beach at Mawun rings a perfect half-moon bay, popular for swimming and picnicking There are good right- and left-hand barrels for surfing here when the swell is large enough. This deserted off-the-beaten-track beach, flankez by massive headlands, is barren trees, which rather accentuates the spectacular scenery and sound of the crashing waves. Apart from the occasional fisherman, it is likely thac you’ll have this fine beach all tc yourself. It also can be reached by bicycle from Kuta, although the road is a bit steep.

Further west, a picturesque little fishing village lies on the fringe of Selong Blanak beach. Instead of detracting from the beauty of the sweeping beach, the village adds to its charm. Colourful fishing outriggers rock in the gentle waves on the bay’s east end. The villagers mak, their living from fishing, especially for squid. White, sugary sand skin-the gorgeous bay, but what make-this place so stunning is the scale c the surrounding landscape is of continental proportions.

Southwest coast

The road to the southwest coast is in very poor condition and has had a problem with roadside robberies in the past. This coast is best accessei by returning to Praya and taking the main road west from there.

Lembar, about an hour south- of Ampenan on the southwest coal is the centre of Lombok’s shipping transport and the harbour for boats arriving from Bali and the west.

Gerung, inland to the east, is the village of the famous cepung men’s social dance during which they read and sing from the Lo Monyet (Monkey Manuscript), tuak (palm wine), dance and vocally imitate gamelan instruments. After Lemar, the road south winds first around the wide natural harbour and through small villages set in valleys, where natural clay is harvested from the hillsides and used to manufacture bricks. The small coastal villages rely mainly on fishing and you will see floating fishing platforms made of bamboo and known as `bagan’ sit-ting in the shallow tidal waters.

Finally, the road opens out into the breathtaking scenery of Sekotong, where the waters turn turquoise and the sand blindingly white. The large calm bay just before Taun (Sekotong Barat) is one of the most beautiful on Lombok, reminiscent of the Caribbean. Investors are snapping up real estate in the area, quick to see the potential, with at least one major resort development occupying the hillside overlooking the sea.

Just off the coast lie three small islands: Gili Nanggu with its soft white sand and sparkling clear waters, Gili Sudat and Gili Tangkong. Gili Nanggu has a small basic hotel and the island is perfect as a castaway escape, with reasonable snorkelling off the beach. There is a signposted parking area at Sekotong Barat where small boats can be chartered to explore these lovely islands.

Winding down the coast, the road hugs the bays and beaches that make up the magical southwest, with views of the many small, undeveloped islands sitting just offshore and the outline of Bali on the horizon. At Pelangan is a small hotel, and boats can be chartered here to explore the numerous islands off the coast, including the huge Gili Gede island.

The road southward deteriorates dramatically, although it is still passable in the dry season. Winding through tiny villages, it continues to the southwesternmost point of Lombok a sheer cliff framing Bangko Bangko beach. Bangko Bangko juts into the sea, forming a junction with the Indian Ocean and creating incredible surf breaks that attract serious surfers from around the world. It regularly rates as one of the top five surf destinations in Southeast Asia. Wild and desolate, the lime-stone cliffs here have been carved by the tides and the surrounding scenery is dramatically beautiful.

Bau Nyale Festival

The Bau Nyale festival commemorates the legend of the beautiful Putri (Princess) Mandalika, who was much sought after as a bride by every king in Lombok. According to local lore, the princess was so torn between the suitors that she threw herself into the sea, crying out, “Kuta” (“Wait for me here”) in the local Sasak language. When she disappeared into the waves below, hundreds of nyale sea worms floated to the surface.

Thus, every February, when the conditions are right, the nyale worms return to the site. People come from all over Lombok to collect the ugly sea worms, which are fried and eaten (the worms are said to be an aphrodisiac).A dukun (priest) will wade into the sea to observe the spawning nyale and predict the impending rice harvest based on the number of worms that appear.

Bau Nyale is the only time of the year when young people on this staunch Muslim island are permitted to strut and flirt openly. When night falls, the youngsters will compete with each other by singing pantun, an improvised poetry of rhyming couplets, and watch men fighting the peresean.

Restaurant

Central Lombok

Indonesian

Wisma Soedjono

Tetebatu, Central Lombok. Mobile tel: 0818-544265. Open: daily B, L & D. $
Set high on the hillside with beautiful views of the surrounding country¬side, this restaurant is the most popular in the area. Serves inexpensive Indonesian and Sasak food; some Western-style snacks also avail¬able. The sate and nasi :amour are very good, as is the Sasak vegetable dish, urap-urap with freshly grated coconut.

South Lombok

International

Family Café

Jalan Raya, Kuta. Tel: 0370- 653748. Open: daily B, L & D. $
Right on the main street of Kuta, this friendly café is good for dining and meeting people. A good range of Western dishes and the usual Indone¬sian and Sasak speciali¬ties are served.

Novotel Coralia

Mandalika Beach, Kuta. Tel: 0370-653333. Open: daily B, L & D. $$$ www.novotel-lomhok.com
With two restaurants within this beautifully designed resort, the Novotel offers the best dining in the south and lovely views of the ocean.

Kafe Chilli is the less expensive of the two and serves good Western meals, includ¬ing wood-fired pizzas and tasty pasta dishes.

Empat Ikan, the resort’s main dining restaurant, serves beautifully prepared seafood, including fresh lobster, served in a variety of styles, and Australian beef fillet with wild mushrooms. During peak seasons, there are often theme dinners with Sasak entertainment by the beachside.